Perth to Brisbane Road Trip – Four states in 19 days! – Part One – Perth to Ceduna

Deciding to go on a road trip was not a hard decision, as my dear hubby loves a drive!  Also our son Laurence was driving back with his girlfriend, Maddy, to begin their new life in Melbourne, so why not accompany them and drive on a bit more.   And so it begins!

Day 1 – Perth to Norseman 

We started our journey on a Sunday morning and did not leave nearly early enough, as per usual.  The great thing about road trips is the amount of luggage you can take,  no weight restrictions here.  So we loaded up the car with our stuff plus we also had some of Maddy’s and then the car was full.
The first stage was going to take us 722 km and around 8 hours with a couple of stops along the way.
Laurence and Maddy had already left two days before to spend some time in Albany and Esperance, and we were going to catch up with them in Madura.

Anthony was driving the very comfortable Mercedes which is great for reclining in the passenger seat!  Sad to say I did not participate in any of the driving.
With just a quick stop in Coolgardie for a beer it was straight through to Norseman.
All the motels and roadhouses along the way tend to close at 8pm and we arrived just as the restaurant was closing.  Lucky I had phoned ahead and was able to order steak and chips for two otherwise it would have been the BP station for dinner.

Old heritage building in Coolgardie

Coolgardie is a small town in Western Australia. It has a population of approximately 850 people. Although Coolgardie is now known to most Western Australians as a tourist town and a mining ghost town, it was once the third largest town in Western Australia.

Norseman
Old farm machinery and sculptures made out of corrugated iron

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Day 2 – Norseman to Madura

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After a good night’s sleep at the Best Western we walked into town to get breakfast only to find we were way too early at 8 am.  Everywhere was closed.  So we walked back to have breakfast at the BP station.   I wanted to have a look at some of the historic sites Norseman had to offer, so we drove up to Beacon’s Hill Lookout.  On the way we passed by what was an old mining site.  It looked like the workers had just downed tools in the middle of the day and never went back.  So much machinery and piles of rubble everywhere.  The view from the top was fabulous.

Some history about Norseman

The discovery of a rich gold reef by Laurie Sinclair in 1894 as a result of his horse ‘Norseman’ uncovering a piece of gold bearing quartz, caused a town to be established and named in honour of the horse.

A rich history of gold mining has developed with many mines operating over the years and many ounces of gold being extracted.

The early pioneers had a very tough life. Water was always a challenge with condensers being set up on the salt lakes to assist in addressing the issue and the towns people relied on camel trains to bring supplies. For the women, raising their children with very little or no medical services, providing meals with basic cooking facilities and scant fresh food, it was very hard work and often heartbreaking.  Source: Norseman Info.

The photos below are some I took at the top of Beacon’s Hill.

From Beacon’s Hill Lookout
My trusty driver
Old photo of the miner’s wives
Miners’ football team
Their own bakery
Enjoying a rest after a hard day’s work

With a brief stop in Caiguna to fill up and then again at Balladonia, we reached Madura around 5.30 pm.

The only animals we saw were hundreds of dead kangaroos.  It was absolute carnage and they were just strewn all over the road in various poses.  A few times we saw vultures or eagles feasting on them.  Apparently the vultures gorge so heavily that they can’t fly high enough after and end up crashing through a road train’s windscreen.

We were staying at the Madura Pass Oasis Motel, I wouldn’t exactly call it an oasis but it wasn’t too bad.  Our rooms were very basic but at least it had a decent restaurant.  We sat and enjoyed a glass of wine in the sun waiting for Laurence and Maddy to arrive.  They finally arrived at 7.30 after their extremely long drive from Esperance.

Enjoying a hearty dinner and a good bottle of red. Freezing in the restaurant, hence the hoodies
This car has obviously done a few miles!
Madura Pass Oasis Motel

Day 3 – Madura to Ceduna

Madura to Ceduna 676 km – 7 hours

An early wake up today as again we had lots of driving and we wanted to stop off at a couple of places for photo shoots.  Anthony went for an early morning walk up into the hills.  Most of these roadhouses don’t serve breakfast or if they do it’s over by 7am!  They cater mainly for the road train drivers.  I had brought with me fresh coffee and a plunger  a necessity for me to have a proper coffee in the morning.  We set off about 9am and our first stop was Mundrabilla for breakfast.

Next up it was Bunda Cliffs for a visit to the Great Australian Bite.  Then onto Border Village where we stopped to cross over to South Australia.  Nullarbor was next and then onto Ceduna.

Great Australian Bite

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A bit about the Nullabor

The Nullarbor Plain in latin means nulls “no” and arbor “tree”.  Located on the Great Australian Bite Coast with the Great Victoria Desert to its north.  It is the largest straight road on the planet and it measures 146.6km in a completely straight line.  You can play 18 holes of golf along the world’s longest golf course – the Nullarbor Links.

Over 100,000 wild camels roam the plain. These camels were imported from British India and Afghanistan to use as transport while building the railroads during the 19th century.
Source: Nullabor Roadhouse.

We didn’t actually spot any animal other than dead kangaroos!

We arrived in Ceduna around 5.30 pm and stayed at the Ceduna Foreshore Motel.  There is a pretty nice restaurant attached to this motel so we had dinner there.  After we walked along the jetty to watch the sunset.  Extremely windy and very cold.

A bit chilly
Ceduna sunset
Really cold!
Ceduna jetty

End of Part one – Perth to Ceduna

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Part Two – Ceduna to Melbourne

Exploring London

We always visit my native country at least once a year for around a month from Perth, WA which is now our home.  I was born in London, worked in London for 16 years and lived there in my twenties for a while, however I was brought up in Essex.  So Essex is not far from London around 35 minutes by train into the City,  Fenchurch Street, and we always like to spend a few days there.  We only go for day trips and mostly to shop and eat!  We usually go to the East end of London for the markets, very rarely venturing into the West.

Although I used to know London pretty well it has now changed so much I find it hard to navigate around without using Google Maps!  There are so many new buildings and streets its getting more like New York every year.  I love it though that there are still the old churches and pubs dotted about in between all the new buildings.  The food is not like it used to be years ago, just the basic Egg and Chip cafe or the more upmarket Steak houses.  You can now eat anything at any price and it will always be great.
The photos I’ve added are from days out over the past couple of years.

Pubs and Bars

 

Lunch at Davy’s Bar, just outside Fenchurch Street
sign inside the bar!
Outside The Prospect of Whitby, Wapping

 

The Prospect of Whitby, as you can see from the sign, is said to be the oldest riverside pub in London dating back to 1520.  It has been used in many tv series.  All that remains of the original building is the 400 year old stone floor.   I used to go here in my twenties and wanted to revisit.  I was quite disappointed that it now only served the basic pub food, whereas many years ago it was a “white tablecloth and silver service” establishment.  Still the views are amazing across the river.  20180903_180322.jpg

I zoomed in across the river to snap this with my Canon Powershot SX730

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Having a quick pint!

The Ship in Talbot Court, EC3 dates back to 1895.  A great traditional pub hidden in a little alley.

Cocktails at The Alchemist, Bevis Marks, EC3

Mlini, Croatia

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Five days/Four nights in Mlini

After leaving beautiful Perast we headed off to Croatia again taking the scenic route. After much thought as to how to make this journey I decided to book a driver, although more expensive, as it seemed the most comfortable way to go. Our driver took the coastal route and was able to stop where we asked so I could take photos of the stunning coastline. It also meant that we got to take the mini car ferry across the Bay of Kotor.

Day One

We stayed in a little bay just passed Mlini called Srebreno although the address of the hotel was in Mlini.  We had an incredible apartment called One Suite Hotel, big enough for four adults with two toilets and completely fitted out kitchen and most importantly a licenced bar on site!  The hotel was approximately five minutes from the beautiful bay of Srebreno with its own ferry pier with boats directly to Cavtat and Dubrovnik both 30 minutes away.

After checking in we went in search of lunch and also a nice restaurant for dinner later. Right on the beach is a newly built Sheraton, slightly out of place I thought in this sleepy village.  Srebreno is an extremely well looked after village and many of the buildings seem very new, although there is still a sleepy small place feel about it.  I loved it on sight and as we wandered along the seafront was happy that I had chosen this place rather than Dubrovnik.

Against the good advice I was given I did not buy reef shoes to go into the sea.  There are very few sandy beaches in Croatia and this one was no exception, most are pebbles.  So with flip flops on I walked down to the edge of the pebbles and into the sea and threw my flip flops back onto the beach.  The water was very “refreshing”.  Getting out was a problem and I most certainly did not look like Ursula Andress/Halle Berry in 007 more like a creature from the deep treading on Lego.  Walking on pebbles is painful.

That night for dinner we went to Marinero, up the hill in between the pine trees.  We asked the waiter for his recommendations and had a local dish, Brudet, which is a fish stew made with whatever fresh fish they have on hand.

Brudet, Croatian Fish Stew – so delicious

Day 2

After breakfast we walked down to our little pier and caught the ferry into Dubrovnik. Our plan today was just to walk around the old town.  Although getting into the old town is free you do have to pay to walk the ramparts.  Even though it was September the place was so busy with many tour groups and queues everywhere, so we decided against walking around the walls.  Apparently to get the best of this place I read that you should actually stay inside and then you have the place to yourselves in the evening and early in the morning.

Tonight’s restaurant was Puntazella.  Another fabulous place with great food and service.  We actually went here twice as it was so good.

Sunset through the pine trees from Puntazella

Day 3

Today we took the bus to Cavtat, a beautiful historic town, southeast of Dubrovnik.  It takes about 20 minutes by boat or bus.  With its tree-lined harbour and wonderful old buildings its a great way to spend the day exploring.

A map showing the bay with Srebreno, Mlini and Plat, with Cavtat and Dubrovnik
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Squid Ink risotto
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After getting the bus back we spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach and hobbling in and out of the sea.  That evening we walked around the bay into Mlini itself for cocktails and then back for dinner at Portun.  Once again a wonderful restaurant just across the road from our hotel.

Day 4

I think today was the highlight of our trip, an excursion to the Elephiti Islands.  These three islands consist of Sipan, Lopud and Kolocep.  Sipan is the furthest away from Dubrovnik with Kolocep being the nearest.  The day trip (leaving from Dubrovnik) included time at all three islands plus a delicious lunch on board with free flowing wine and beer!

Our first stop was Kolocep and we stopped here for around 45 minutes, enough to have a quick walk around and a drink.  Next up was Lopud this was also for 45 minutes.  Enough time for you to get a feel of the islands and take a few photos.  I could just have easily stayed on both for a few days.  Then we were back on board for lunch and onto the last island of Sipan where we spent nearly 3 hours.  Sipan has one of the few sandy beaches in Croatia. To get there we had to walk for a while before then taking a golf cart down a dirt track, I was adamant that I wanted to see it though!

Leaving Dubrovnik

Our Boat
Built in wine rack
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Enjoying the local Rose before heading back

I would really recommend this trip, it’s really easy to book once you are in Mlini as there are ticket centres everywhere.

Day 5

As we had a late flight back to the UK  we could enjoy the whole day, so we headed back into Dubrovnik by bus this time.  Even though Dubrovnik is now just a tourist attraction and extremely busy I could still enjoy walking through the old town and soaking up the history within its walls.  There are so many alleys, doors and courtyards to walk around and cafes to stop and have a drink.  The only thing missing (much to Anthony’s dismay) were shops, proper shops! He does love a department store which I’m glad to say there were none.

Waiting for the bus
The bus stopped at the top of the hill and we had to walk down so many steps!
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And that concludes our short trip to Croatia.  We had two more weeks in the UK before flying back to Perth.  Still a long wait for our two boys Zac and Rufus who were enjoying their own holiday in kennels ):

Always with my dear hubby

Montenegro

Perast and Rafailovici 

Why Perast and not Kotor? Well after much research I decided on Perast as I had read it was so much more peaceful than Kotor. It’s just a few kilometres north west of Kotor and consists of just a small promenade situated around a beautiful bay. It was described by a taxi driver as the Vatican of Montenegro, which I thought was very apt. Not many cars are allowed here it’s very strictly controlled.

I had booked a small waterfront apartment called The White Terrace. It was a fabulous place and the owner Bob picked us up from Tivat airport. With only two days here we had to make the most of this time.

The promenade is lined with apartments and restaurants and on our first night we ate at the oldest restaurant Armonia. We had a lovely table right on the waterfront, food and wine we’re delicious.

The next day after breakfast we had a walk along the promenade and took in the beautiful views .

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Our apartment on the first floor

After this we took the local bus into Kotor to have a look around the old town. The contrast between the two places is staggering. Kotor is where the cruise ships dock almost docking right onto the street. Spilling out passengers by the dozen the pavements were packed with tourists.

We decided to just have a walk around the old town ourselves and soak up the atmosphere. Kotor did not disappoint. It has a vast history being founded in the fifth century and is now a UNESCO world heritage sight.

Our daily lunch.. Ripe juicy tomatoes with creamy mozzarella

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Could it get any closer

On the hunt for a decent shop

Window box
Love a good window box

After an afternoon spent here as nice as it was, we were glad to get back to peaceful  Perast.  We thought we’d have a swim from the little platform in front of the apartment, well Anthony plunged straight in whereas I did it the hard way down the ladder.  What a shock, very cold and as we found out later there are icy springs spouting every so often, at least we went in.

With just one night to go we ate at the fabulous Konoba Skolji restaurant where I had read some great reviews. We chose to share the famous ” lamb under the bell”, slow roasted lamb, absolutely delicious.

And that was the end of two fabulous days in Perast.

The next day we were going to Rafailovici for two more days before heading into Croatia.

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Rafailovici 

The route from Perast to Rafailovici

I decided the easiest and fastest way to Rafailovici was by taxi also more comfortable.  It was less than an hours drive and we were there by 1pm.  It’s just past Budva and supposed to be quieter, I never like to stay in the most popular place and prefer to stay just outside the main area.

Our taxi driver was quite chatty and wondered why we were going to Budva as he said it was horrible! This wasn’t the first time we’d heard this opinion.  So I really wasn’t looking forward to the next two days.  On the positive side it was only two days and it was somewhere new.

After checking into Hotel Aleksander which was right on the seafront we headed out for lunch and a look around.  Some photos of my first impressions.

Fish pate, a typical local delicacy

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Couldn’t find a bed of nails so next best thing is a bed of boulders

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A much needed mojito 🍸[[[[[[
We did have a swim and the water is crystal clear but as the water is a bit cold made it very quick.  After a wonderful dinner at the hotel overlooking the sea we headed back for an early night.

Dinner
Perfectly grilled sea bream

So the next day after breakfast we took a hotel van and driver to Lake Skadar,

The lake is located in Zeta – Skadar valley and is surrounded by mountains, and it’s 7 km away from Adriatic Sea. Two Thirds of Skadar Lake is in Montenegro and the rest is in Albania. Skadar Lake is the largest lake in the Balkan Peninsula.

We chose the two hour boat trip, but one hour would have been enough for me.  If you ever visit Budva it’s worth having a trip out here as the lake and scenery are beautiful.

For our last night here we headed into Budva itself.  The atmosphere here is completely different to Rafailovici, for a start there were so many more English tourists whereas I had heard no English at all in Rafailovici.  It seemed to be more for local Montengrens holidaying.  Budva like Kotor has an old town which we wandered around, it’s an amazing place and I loved it here.

It took absolutely ages to find the restaurant we wanted to eat in, we had actually found it straight away really but were told it was just a museum.  It was only when going back and asking if there was a restaurant there the girl said oh yes at the back!  We ate at the Citadella restaurant which has amazing views overlooking the sea.

And that was that.  I’m so glad we got to visit Montenegro and see the wonderful sights, eat delicious food and drink divine wine, but most of all to meet the lovely friendly people of this country.

Next up was Croatia.

Hyper Hanoi – October 2016

Adding onto our Laos/Vietnam trip we flew to Hanoi from Luang Prabang and planned to stay here for three days.  We decided instead of organised trips we would just explore Hanoi on our own.  I had booked three days at Hotel Nikko a very large Japanese hotel near Hoan Kiem Lake. The hotel was fantastic with magnificent views over the city.  Both photos were taken from our room.  I loved all the gadgets on the toilet!

Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and the second largest city in Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh being the largest.  Its chaotic and noisy 24 hours a day with horns blaring and hundreds of motor bikes whizzing by.  If they can’t get by on the roads then they just use the pavement.

As we arrived quite late we had dinner at the hotel, unfortunately we were not very impressed. The restaurant is also where they serve breakfast and they have a smoking area inside but its just an alcove, so you can smell smoke constantly – Japanese business men are big smokers.

The next two days and nights were just spent walking around and eating amazing food.  Hanoi has some of the best restaurants I’ve ever eaten in.  It’s an incredibly busy city and you take your chances when crossing any road.  Red lights don’t seem to mean much here!  The sights we took in were the Old Quarter, the Citadel and St Josephs Church.  Some photos below:

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A very kind lady let Anthony pose with her goods

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Inside the citadel

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St Joseph’s Church

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Heavy loads

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Inside the citadel

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Graduating students

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Sunset from the room

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Bonsai Tree

One of the restaurants we ate in was Pots and Pans which I see now from their website is permanently closed.  At the time of visiting this was a teaching restaurant to help young people get a good start in life.  Another was Verticale a French restaurant, which served gourmet French food with a Vietnamese twist and the staff and service were impeccable, probably one of the best meals I’ve eaten was here!

After Hanoi we drove to Ha Long Bay for a one night/two day cruise, that will be on the next post!

Laid back Luang Prabang, Laos – October 2016

The second part of our trip to Laos was to the incredibly beautiful Luang Prabang.  This tiny town is encircled by mountains and sits on the banks of the Mekong and Nam Khan River.  We flew Lao Airlines from Vientiane and had arranged for a driver to take us to our hotel.  We stayed at the very elegant Belle Rive Hotel just across from the river.  It is an old French colonial building with rooms that are more like small apartments with your own private entrance.  Luang Prabang has such a lovely laid back atmosphere. Hardly any cars on the roads, people cycling by and boats meandering along the river makes for a very relaxing time.

The hotel offered a free sunset cruise which we just had time to board.  It took us on a leisurely trip along the Mekong.  Below is a slide show of some of the shots I took.

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We had dinner that night at L’Elephant, a beautiful French restaurant not too far from our hotel.

L'Elephant
A perfectly cooked steak

The next day we were picked up by our driver – a cousin of our driver in Vientiane – at 10 a.m for a river trip to Pak Ou Cave, including lunch on the river.  Then onto to Kuang Si Waterfalls and the Bear Park with a short stop to a paper making village.  Luang Prabang is very famous for making paper.  Some photos below of our day.

Kuang Si Waterfalls

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Pretending to be the three eyed raven – GOT fans

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I managed to get some clear shots but there were actually many people swimming in these water falls, although it was extremely slippery.

Asiatic Black Bear Rescue Centre

I just managed to get two shots as the Centre was closing.  Very cute baby bears.

For our final day we had our driver just for the morning where we were going to Mount Phou Si, which is a 100 m high hill in the centre of the old town.  Today was also the end of the Buddhist Lent and all the young monks were getting ready to sail along the Mekong that evening in the lighted boats.

 

Our last night in Luang Prabang was spent on the river front at our hotel having dinner and watching the Lighting Festival.  “The day is celebrated by illuminated boat processions handmade with bamboo and banana trunks, colourfully decorated with candles and money. Each family has to make one, each person has to throw out one illuminated little boat on the Mekong, wishing good luck for the future and paying respect to the spirit of the waters. There are more than 20000 boats sailing slowly down the river during the night” from the website www.luangprabang-laos.com/Festival-of-lights-209.  We didn’t actually see 20,000 boats but saw a few.

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This is where I needed a more professional camera to catch the brightly coloured boats.
So that concludes Luang Prabang.  The thing I liked best about this wonderful city was the absolute serenity and peacefulness of it all.
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Midweek break in Yallingup

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Yallingup is in the South Western region of Western Australia.  Its a great spot to visit for a short break especially from Perth.  The drive takes just under three hours.
With so many places to stay it was so difficult to decide, we eventually chose the  Sienna Lodge and it did not disappoint! Situated in between Barnyard Winery and Cafe Lavender on Caves Road, it was just a short drive into Yallingup and around 10k from Dunsborough. Its owned and managed by a very friendly Lithuanian couple – Raminta & Egis Rusilas, they also own the beautiful “Barnyard Vineyard”.

Arriving just after 4pm we dropped our bags in our room and headed over to take a look at the beach and then happy hour at the iconic Caves Hotel.  A few snaps of the wild coastline of South West WA.

Dinner that night was at the gastronomic restaurant of Lamonts and as it was so busy Kate Lamont was waiting tables herself.  Always a good idea to book ahead as this place is nearly always full.

Next morning as the Barnyard cafe only opens for breakfast on weekends we headed into Dunsborough for our freerange poached eggs on sourdough toast with coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice.  Back to Sienna to decide where to have our next feast but first a stop in the Barnyard cafe for a midmorning glass of wine and a little look around.
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As there are so many wineries, we again had the difficult task of choosing where to go for lunch. We wanted to try something new so we headed over to the Brookwood Estate.

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The menu had some tasty tapas options which was perfect for lunch.

Starters
prosciutto wrapped fillet mignon and grilled prawns with chill and coriander aoli

Dinner that night was in Caves Hotel as it was just down the road from us, also many places were fully booked due to the school holidays.  Caves is always a good choice as it has such a great atmosphere, you can be casual and eat outside or dress up and eat inside.  Food is always good and portions so large that one dish is enough for two.  We had a chef’s platter to start, and sticky ribs to share.  There were leftovers!

Some sculptures that caught my eye

The late afternoon sun shining on these trees at Caves Hotel

By the next day it was already time to check out. Time fly’s when you’re having fun, theres only so much you can eat and drink in two days! We drove into Yallingup and had an excellent breakfast in the general store which is also the Post Office, just by Caves House. Its not that well advertised that they even do breakfast. On the drive back we were recommended to drop by the Bunbury Farmers Market.  Its a great place to stock up on fresh local produce.  We even bought some lunch here and stopped at Heron Point to eat it.

And that was our very short two night stay over, until the next time we fancy a break!

Kagoshima

Our route to Kagoshima

Nagasaki to Kagoshima

6 June 2017

By now I think our two drivers were getting the hang of the roads and tolls!  It was especially useful to be able to input a telephone number into the satnav instead of the actual address – very helpful considering how all the Japanese places were spelt.  Because if you put an o instead of an a or e you can end up many miles away as all the names are very similar or so they seem to us.  Also included in the satnav the amount of the toll you had to pay was spoken to you beforehand.

We had a four hour drive ahead of us as you can see from the map above.  As Kyushu is made up of several small islands there was not really a direct route to take to Kagoshima.

We passed through Yanegawa on the way which is made up of lots of canals.

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Arrived quite late to Hotel Shiroyama – beautiful hotel – high up on a hill overlooking Mt. Sakurajima.  Sakurajima is still smoking and one of the reasons we visited Kagoshima.

As it was late decided to eat at the hotel on the 13th floor.  Had a gourmet French dinner – fantastic!

 

Shame the windows in our room were frosted! so had no view – obviously you had to pay more for the view.

 

Fukuoka to Beppu

Fukuoka to Beppu

Friday 2 June

Today we picked up our hire car with the driving to be shared between our two trusty drivers, Vaughan and Anthony.  The route I had mapped out for us was slightly bizarre!  In our nine days in Kyushu we travelled West to East to West to North to South, but it was the only way I could see to get every place in that we wanted to visit.  It was hard also because Anthony in his excitement kept calling out different places he wanted to visit.  And so it went…

We drove first to Kokonoe Bridge. It is 390 meters long, 173 meters high, 1.5 meters broad and it is the highest suspension walking bridge in Japan.  Vaughan actually experienced vertigo on this bridge.  It was extremely windy in the middle of the bridge. You can see Mimata Mt. and Waita Mt in the distance.

After this hair raising experience we stopped somewhere in the mountains for lunch.  Found such a quaint place.  Scenery was incredible from here.

Then onto Beppu with a brief stop in Yufuin a popular hot spring resort.  We’re now in the Oita Prefecture.

Arrived late afternoon to Beppu Bay Royal Hotel overlooking the ocean.  Just the one night here – why? Anthony said he liked the sound of the name Beppu.   The hotel was situated just outside the town but I chose it because of the perfect views especially from our bedroom window.

As there were not any restaurants around the hotel we taxied into town around 15 minutes away and found a great Korean BBQ place.  Food was delicious and our waiter hilarious.  A good night.

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And so next morning onto Kumamoto.