Our last day today and finally breakfast for four! After a full English breakfast at the hotel, we packed up the car and drove off to Launceston Airport to drop Laurence and Maddy off. We then drove back to Hobart for our flight much later that evening.
We had enough time to stop at Swansea which is on the East coast of Tasmania for lunch and a quick wander around.
Plans are already being made to visit this wonderful state again and visit the parts we missed.
Tasmania definitely exceeded our expectations, especially hubby’s! The seafood and the wine were the favourites of course. But there is no denying the beauty of this State. It is absolutely true what they say that around every corner or bend there is something to see and take photos or just stand in wonder and stare.
It was Maddy’s Birthday today and a day out at the River Tamar Wineries was on the itinerary. After letting them have a bit of a lie in from their late night, we set off around 11 am. We took the West Tamar Highway and our first stop was Grindelwald. From the name you can would be correct in thinking it was modelled on a Swiss village. Built in 1989 by Roelf Vos, a Dutch immigrant to Tasmania, for his wife after they visited Switzerland. The story is that she loved Switzerland so much the he built a village just for her!
As you can see the weather has cleared up beautifully.
There is a hotel here and a few activities for kids around. It’s very quaint but I don’t think I could spend a night here.
Our next stop was Marion’s Vineyard, established in 1979 by a Cypriot and Californinan couple with stunning views across the Tamar. There is no restaurant here but there is a beautiful area to enjoy a bottle of wine and a cheese platter. As we had reservations for lunch elsewhere we just did the wine tasting. If you buy a bottle the tasting is free. We had acquired quite a taste for Tasmanian wine so we did buy a few bottles between us.
It was such an interesting winery with lots of quirky decor in a taverna type setting.
This painting was on the wall inside the bar area and I just loved it. Can you recognise all these characters? Hubby knew them all of course, Laurence and Maddy had no idea, I knew most.
A stained glass image of the barn at night. The barn is pictured in the featured image.
The essential rusty tool exhibit, all Australian wineries have one!
From here we drove to our lunch venue, Timbre Kitchen, located in Velo Wines. When our waitress handed us the menu we wanted to order nearly everything on it! It all looked so delicious and of course once again I forgot to take photos of the food.
Naturistic lighting
After a most enjoyable lunch, there was still enough time left to visit another winery for some more tasting! With so many wineries to choose from it was hard to pick just one. In the end we opted for The Swinging Gate. We were lucky to get a table as it was very popular with the wine tours, bookings are recommended. This time we were served at the table for different tastings and given a sheet of paper to mark down our verdicts.
I thought the “waste not want not” attitude to various items of furniture was a great idea, hence the doors on the wall.
A view from The Swinging Gate of Domescape Glamping in the Vines.
And really that was all we had time for, most of the wineries close at 4pm. A relaxing drive back to Launceston and tonight was our last night in Tasmania.
For the next few days we would be exploring Launceston and some of the surrounding areas. George Town and Low Head were the destinations for today. We travelled along the East Tamar Highway alongside the Tamar River. Low Head is a suburb of George Town and sits right on the peninsula with a lighthouse at the top.
The above photo is of the Windmill Point Tree Sculptures. Depicting the workmen hauling ashore the telegraph cable that linked Tasmania to the North Island. Carved by chainsaw artist Eddie Freeman from macrocarpa trees.
One of theTamar River Leading Lights
Low Head
Onto Low Head to have a look at the lighthouse and historic site that is up there. There is a carpark just below the lighthouse and after parking we made our way to the top. Constructed in 1837 by convicts, originally made of rubble with a coat of stucco. It was decided to build a lighthouse after a dozen ships were wrecked over the previous years.
Walking down the hill the to the sea, I could see some black and white birds on a rock. It said there were penguins nesting around so I had a look through my Canon Powershot and sure enough there were a “huddle” of penguins on the rocks.
I had to balance the camera on one of the rocks to keep my hands steady, I was very happy that they didn’t come out blurry.
I felt like I’d had a good workout by the time we got back to the top and into the car. Stopping again in George Town for a delicious lunch in a waterside restaurant called The Crazy Duck. We still had a few hours left before Laurence and Maddy were arriving from Melbourne that evening, I looked at the map to see if there was anywhere worth seeing on our return to Launceston. Deciding on Lilydale Falls we drove half an hour east away from the river.
Lilydale Falls
After parking the car we made our to the first waterfall which was around 15 minutes and then saw a path to the much bigger one. It did have a warning for this part of the walk to say there were no handrails and it was quite a way longer. I’m glad we made the effort though, not that it was an effort for hubby only me! There were huge trees and ferns all around and so peaceful. There were a few other people walking the trail but not enough to hold anyone up.
At the start of the walk
Getting back to the hotel around 5pm, I had just enough time for a rest before Laurence and Maddy arrived and then it was straight out to dinner.
Another walk to the restaurant called Cataract on Paterson. Wonderful lively restaurant with a great menu and friendly staff.
Always a treat to see these two
And then it was back to our prison block as hubby called our hotel! Actually it was a very nice hotel “Balmoral on York” but housed in a plain brick utilitarian building. Conveniently located with a super host and great reception staff. There was a cute breakfast room serving continental and cooked breakfasts. The rooms were perfectly fine with extremely comfy beds.
Tomorrow we would be heading to Cataract Gorge which was going to involve lots of walking!
All too soon we were leaving Stanley, enroute to Launceston. It’s just a 2 hour 30 minute drive, so we had plenty of time to explore the wonderful coast road.
Our first stop was Boat Harbour Beach where we stopped for coffee. We found a beautiful little cafe right on the beach.
Boat Harbour Beach
There are so many small coves and bays along this route. Next stop was Devonport. This is the port where the “Spirit of the Sea” docks. Sailing from Melbourne twice a day, overnight and in the day. Next time we visit Tasmania this is what hubby would like to do.
Following Penguin Road along the beach there is also a railway line, that is in close proximity with the road. We were lucky enough to see a freight train riding along side of us.
The Western Railway Line
For lunch we settled on a restaurant called Drift, which overlooked the Bass Strait. It was housed in a glass walled timber structure jutting over the beach.
Drift Restaurant, Devonport
Before driving to our hotel in Launceston we had to make an additional stop at the airport to change our car as the aircon had stopped working! They were expecting us so we were able to make a swap without too much trouble!
Arriving at our hotel at 5 pm, we checked in and then went off for a walk. We definitely took a few wrong turns and it ended up being a very long walk.
Launceston is just so full of old historical buildings that have been renovated or restored and now house businesses and restaurants. It was nice to see whole buildings intact, unlike Perth, WA, where often they just keep the facade.
Customs House was built in 1885 and features beautiful intricate Corinthian columns.
Albert Hall built in 1891 and is still used for events and functions.
Price Memorial Hall built in 1896 and the Independent Church built in 1836, by the Reverend Price, once stood next to it.
Launceston is a riverside town and is very different from Hobart. It’s the second largest city after Hobart. It seemed to me that the streets and roads were much steeper. The Tamar River runs through Launceston where there are many wineries and vineyards along the route.
A street in Launceston
We ended up at the Seaport where there are many restaurants and bars, and had happy hour in the Mud Bar.
There was a concert being played the weekend we were there, Jimmy Barnes and some other equally famous bands, so we were told everywhere would be booked out. I did make a few restaurant bookings before we arrived though and for our first night we went to Novaris. A very elegant Italian restaurant not too far from our hotel.
Tomorrow we will pick up Laurence and Maddy who are joining us for the rest of our stay in Tasmania.
During our short stay in Stanley we visited Highfield Historic Site. I love a historical house, more so when it has an English background in another country.
Highfield was built in 1826 in the Regency style of 1811 – 1820, by Edward Curr. Mr. Curr was the newly appointed manager of Van Diemans Land company that had bought 250,000 acres in this region. He and his wife Elizabeth had 15 children, most sent away to school during their early years.
I was fascinated by this house and all the gruesome history that went with it. Being built by the hands of the convicts that were being transported from England at the time. It was a very harsh and rugged terrain and many ventures failed due to the inclement weather.
Highfield House
The Stables
They made sure they were warm with all these beautiful fireplaces. One in every room.
The Dining Room
One of the conversations written down for prosperity!
The Drawing RoomThe Gallery
Upstairs Bedroom
Dressing Room
Room with a view
We had a wonderful time exploring this house, with all the in-depth information available. There are portraits on the wall of everyone who has lived here and some background history, extracts of diaries from the ladies of the house as well as detailed goods that were needed to run such a busy household.
Of course it must be remembered that before this settlement was built it was home to the diminishing Tasmanian Aboriginal People. With the contest for these lands between the Company and the Indigenous People came many violent deaths and massacres.
Some wonderful murals from the Town of Sheffield, Tasmania. The mural capital of Australia.
Any Vacancies – Julian Bale
Spirited Horses – John Landis
In 1919 a severe electrical storm struck while men were working on the Cradle Mountain road. A bolt of lightning hit a nearby tree causing the horses to take fright and throw their riders, breaking the back of Ross Connell who died six weeks later in hospital.
The mural shows the mountains in the park, as well as the often extreme weather conditions. Source: Sheffield Visitor Information.
By the time we had reached our hotel in Stanley it was past 7.30 pm. The reception was closed so I headed into the bistro attached to the hotel. It was noisy, lively and full. One of the bar staff checked us in and gave us a key to our room. When I asked about the possibility of dinner, she said they were completely full and the only other option was the seafood restaurant down in the harbour. She kindly made a quick phone call and booked us a table, last orders were at 8pm. Not sure of our bearings we drove the two minute drive!
A view of the setting sun through the window and hubby’s dinner
The Stanley Hotel where we were staying for two nights. We had a wonderful room with a sea view
The next morning we walked just a few minutes up the road to a lovely little cafe Touchwood, where we had breakfast with a sea view. Most places in Stanley would give you a sea view.
Tasmania
Stanley
Breakfast for two
After breakfast and a walk through Stanley, we headed to The Nut. I wanted to take the chairlift up and hubby wanted to walk, but I said he had to come with me and could walk later!
The Nut Chairlift was designed and manufactured in Austria It traverses a distance of 250 meters, rising 95 meters. After a leisurely five minute ride to the top of The Nut, you can explore the plateau, soak up the incredible views and take advantage of the superb photographic opportunities. Source: The Nut Chairlift. The Nut is the remains of an ancient volcanic plug with a large, mostly flat surface that can be circumnavigated on foot (hence its original name, Circular Head).
Going Up
Going down
At the top
I think this is a crocus, growing out of the rocks
Stanley is such a peaceful little town and so well kept. It reminded me of places in Devon and Cornwall with its quaint harbour, shops and cottages.
St. Paul’s Church 1887
Town Hall
A building from 1840
Joe Lyons’ Cottage – Tasmania’s First Prime Minister – 1932 – 1939
Down by the harbour
The lighthouse above was used in the filming of “The Light Between the Oceans”
Later that afternoon we drove out to Highfield House and also stopped at Anthony’s Beach. Hubby’s namesake!
Hubby on his own beach
We both loved Stanley and had a fabulous two nights here. I guess because of Covid many places have shut down, leaving limited options for eating out at night. We had dinner on both nights at Hersey’s Seafood and enjoyed the food and especially the wine!
I was very excited to see this town, a whole place dedicated to murals. I find murals very intriguing as there is so much to see in them. Like an outside art gallery. It is the mural capital of Australia and it is modelled on a similar place in Canada. As we were still driving…
I was very excited to see this town, a whole place dedicated to murals. I find murals very intriguing as there is so much to see in them. Like an outside art gallery. It is the mural capital of Australia and it is modelled on a similar place in Canada.
As we were still driving towards our last destination of the day, Stanley, and it was getting late, we only had time for a very brief stop. I did managed to take quite a few though.
I tried to find out more about these murals, some have descriptions but some only have the artist’s name.
The titles mentioned are ones I have made up myself!
The featured image is of Cradle Mountain by John Landis
Friends and Strangers
Artist: Kerry Nicholson
Sports around the world
Artist: Kerry Nicholson
A day away from the city
Kerry and Malcolm Nicholson
The above murals were at the beginning of the road before entering the town itself, they didn’t seem to have much information on them.
There is so much colour and details in these murals, I think the above is my favourite, an afternoon quilting by the river.
There is a message in this one, I can only guess by the image of the old man on the left and what was inflicted on the indigenous people with the arrival of the explorers and convicts from England.
The end of the road
I did take more but am saving them for Monday Mural
After leaving Eaglehawk Neck we drove onto Richmond for the night, staying at Hatcher’s Manor. It sounds very glorious and also looked fabulous from the photos. The outside didn’t disappoint, but the rooms and restaurant could have done with a bit of renovation!
Arriving around 6.30 pm we had booked to have dinner in the restaurant there, so poor hubby didn’t have to drive anymore. A limited menu and wine list greeted us. I was invited to the kitchen to see what cold whites were on offer, sadly nothing Tasmanian, too expensive I was told.
Hatcher’s ManorOur room for the night
Hubby choosing his after dinner drink behind the bar
Intriguing pieces around the property
The owner kept three horses on the property that he told us were just left there! He used to let them out of their field and have a wander around the property. Chomping and chewing their way around the flower beds.
The man of the manor and his horses
Leaving Hatcher’s after breakfast we made our way into Richmond for a quick wander and a coffee. We had a long drive ahead of us to reach Stanley that night, almost five hours not counting the stops.
This is the route we were taking today.
Richmond
This town has a population of just over 800 and is situated in the Coal River Region. It’s most famous structure is the Richmond Bridge which was built in 1823. It is the oldest stone span bridge in Australia.
A waving hubby
Walking into Richmond itself we took a turn around the Gaol and had another history lesson. Richmond Gaol is Australia’s oldest colonial gaol, and has a great self guided tour on offer. It dates back to 1825. When you enter the different rooms the narrative starts. Sometimes it’s a bit startling hearing the screams, cries and pleas of the women prisoners. This was a mixed jail, where sleeping quarters were always overcrowded. There were also solitary cells for repeat offenders. Women were often repeat offenders attempting to escape harsh masters and preferred to live out their sentence inside a jail.
Door to a cell
Womens’ toilet
From the Jailer’s residence
Fireplace in one of the guard’s rooms
The local gingerbread house
Oatlands
I researched the drive over to Stanley to see where we could stop and what towns would be the most interesting. Oatlands was one such place and we had a quick stop here to see the windmill.
Callington Mill, a Georgian Mill built in 1837 and restored in 2010. This is still a working mill and produces quality flour.
A traditional stone wall cottage, I pretty much blend in!
We stopped at Ross for lunch, this was another very pretty historical town, but sadly not enough time to have a good look around. Next up was Sheffield, a town of murals. I took plenty of photos here, but that will be for another post!
Before heading to our next stop we took a detour down to Port Arthur. It’s a place I really wanted to see, hubby just says “where to next” and has no idea of the itinerary I have planned!
It takes around 90 minutes to drive from Hobart to Port Arthur, and you also have to book your time slot beforehand. We had booked a walking tour and boat trip and arrived around 12.30 pm. I have to say I was very disappointed with our tour guide as she didn’t move off her spot for 40 minutes, and I tuned out after a while as I watched the other tour groups walking around the many buildings on site. It felt rude to walk away. After she had finished her talk we had very little time left to explore before our boat trip.
The Penitentiary, formerly the flour mill, converted in 1854. This building had three floors. The ground floor was for the more dangerous prisoners and they were kept in heavy irons. The first floor housed men in lighter irons and the top floor accommodated up to 348 men in bunk beds. There was also a library, chapel and mess room. The prisoners were encouraged to read the thousands of books kept there, but after ten hours hard and gruelling physical labour I doubt they had the time.
This was the hospital where convicts were treated for respiratory or rheumatic ailments brought on by sleeping in cold and dank cells.
Looking through a window frame at one of the old cottages
The Guard Tower
Looking back on the Penitentiary and surrounding buildings.
On the boat sailing away towards Carnarvon Bay.
Isle of the Dead
There is a small island just off the site of Port Arthur that is the settlement’s cemetery. Between 1833 and 1877, 1100 people were buried here, convicts, military officers and their wives.
Some info on Port Arthur
Port Arthur was not just a prison but a complete community. It was home to convicts, military and civilian officers and their families. There is a church, school, cottages and law courts. The prisoners living and working here were repeat offenders from other penal colonies around Australia. Some prisoners survived and were by that time skilled and educated. Most did not and ended up in the asylum or the Isle of the Dead.
Port Arthur is also the place of the 1996 massacre, where 35 people lost their lives and 19 more were wounded. There is a memorial garden here commemorating them.
It is a very sobering place to visit but well worth your while. The grounds are beautifully well kept and also the buildings that are still intact. The boat trip is also worth going on.
We were pushed for time and didn’t really get to see as much as I would have liked, trying to fit everything in is not alway possible!
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After leaving Port Arthur and driving onto our next stop, we headed further down to Eaglehawk Neck. Here we had a long awaited lunch/snack looking over Pirates Bay.
Tasmin Blow Hole
Another very busy day on our tour and we still had another hour and half’s drive to our next destination, Richmond.
