Category: Europe

~ Lisbon Adventures – Day of Disasters ~

My last day in Lisbon was full of disasters. Starting early in the morning, I set off before breakfast to join a bus tour to Sintra. I had booked this previously while up at the castle. The sky was black, occasionally lit up by bolts of lightening accompanied by enormous claps of thunder. I arrived in plenty of time at the hotel named. After 15 minutes my spidey sense kicked in. I went inside and asked the concierge if they would kindly phone the number on my ticket. (Only data on my esim). I found out quickly that I had been booked the day before, but the wrong date was on my ticket.

It was suggested by now that I take an uber across town to see if I could catch the bus before it departed. I finally arrived at the correct place but watched all four buses leave. I stood at the roadside trying to wave them down, dripping wet. Beyond belief by now and hungry (hangry I should say) I went into the tour office. Anyway to finish off, the lovely girl in there booked me on another tour in the afternoon. I did lose some money but really did not have the patience or energy to trek back up to Sao Jorge Castle for a refund.

As wet as it was I had a good walk along the Avenue da Liberdade. This glorious boulevard is modeled after Champs-Elysees. Many luxury boutiques line this street along with five star hotels and restaurants.

So onto Sintra for an afternoon visit to the National Palace of Sintra. The tour was meant to include Cascais and Estoril, but due to the torrential rain we only had a brief stop in Cascais.

Looking up at the National Palace of Pena through the mist.

Capturing the reflections of the balustrade on the wet tiles.

I loved the ornate ceilings inside the Palace, each room had its own story to tell.

The coats of arms of the Portuguese royal family
The Galleys Room, depicting galleys from various countries
The Mermaid Room or Room of the Sirens

This ceiling dates from the 17th century and is within a geometric framework of wooden red and green beams.

The Swan Room ceiling, a masterpiece of gilded woodwork and painted panels. It is decorated with 27 painted swans. A number believed to be the age of the Infanta Isabel of Portugal when she became engaged. Each swan wears a crown around its neck.

The above two photos show the ceiling of the Magpie Room. There are 136 painted magpies, each holding a red rose in its claw, and a motto “Por bem” – For Honour in its beak. The magpies are said to represent the ladies-in-waiting of the court, gossiping about King John I kissing a lady-in-waiting. Source: Sintra Palace.

Just one example of the fabulous azulejo tiles on display in the palace. Such amazing scenes depicted throughout this room.

“Only the illustrious deserve to be painted” – Francisco de Hollanda

I thoroughly enjoyed my short time in Sintra. It is such a quaint town. Despite the rain I’m happy I managed to see some of it.

All’s well that ends well as the saying goes. And that is the end of my sojourn in Lisbon. More adventures await as we travel to Faro tomorrow.

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~ Lisbon Adventures – Day 2 – Exploring Sao Jorge Castle ~

I woke up to a bleak and wet dreary day. Nevertheless, I set out with my trusty pink mac and waterproof shoes. After breakfast I stood pondering on the pavement looking at the slick and shiny cobblestones, realising the only way was up.

The famous yellow funicular – no longer in action

I was told yesterday that Tram 28 would take me as close to the castle as possible. Jumping on the tram I asked the young female driver if this was correct, nodding affirmatively she drove off. Heavy on the horn and hard on the breaks she made her way slowly up towards the castle.

Through the windows of the tram

Enjoying the ride and lost in thought I was more than surprised when she announced “everybody off”. I had missed the castle stop completely as places were not announced. I was told I had to make my way over to the other side of the square and start again. I waited in line for 15 minutes with the rain pouring down. With irony, I jumped back on the same tram and with the same driver! I pointedly asked her to tell me this time what stop to alight at.

Finally arriving, I walked up to the castle and started exploring. The rain was getting heavier so I did my best to take quick shots while trying to keep my phone dry.

Rainbow of raincoats

So many peacocks of various colours

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Slightly on edge with beady eyes staring at me

There has been a structure on the top of the hill since the 1st Century. Sao Jorge Castle was captured in the 11th Century by King Alfonso. It was converted to a Royal palace and lived in until the 16th century.

Arches and Gateways

The walk around the castle was taking me quite some time. With so many stairs to climb on uneven slippery stones, I was being extra careful!

Windows, doors and other structures

Me and the views!

The views were stunning made more magical with the rooftop tiles glistening from the rain.

Feeling wet and cold it was time for lunch. It’s not hard to find a cozy cafe (“tasca”) in Lisbon and I walked into one just outside the castle. Of course I chose another fish dish.

Watching the world go by

The trip back to town did not go as planned, which seems to be the theme so far for this trip. Hopped on the wrong bus, just hoping for the best not really planning for the worst. I had a long walk back to the apartment, arriving completely soaking wet.

However, The Brother had planned a great evening which made up for it. He took me to a secret bar around 15 minutes walk away. Here we enjoyed a cocktail in the most quirkiest of places.

The place was amazing, with World War I and II toys on showcased in cabinets and on the ceiling.

Who doesn’t like a man in uniform!

Cheers!

The Pink Mac in all it’s glory. Here I am looking like a Tele Tubby, according to The Brother.

~ Lisbon Adventures – Day One ~

As my brother is working in Portugal I thought I would take the opportunity to visit him. He booked us into a two bed apartment just down the hill from the infamous funicular. During the day I was left to my own devices, meeting up for dinner at night. I’m quite happy to take tours on my own or follow google maps to explore this beautiful city.

Cozy Cafe perfect for breakfast
Poached Eggs with Zuchinni Fritters

I found a cute little cafe just a minute from the apartment to start the day with coffee and breakfast.
I worked out a walking plan and started down the hill. At the bottom I spied a hop on bus which I jumped on right away. Looking at the map I intended to alight at the Jeronimos Monastery. When I looked at the queue, I realised there was no way I was going to line up for an hour in the sun. I decided a different plan was called for.

Jeronimos Monastery

Empire Square Garden

I carried on walking towards the water front and through a beautiful park. The song Perfect was being played by a girl with a flute which could be heard all through the park.

The amazing Monument to the Discoveries came into view, looking dramatic against the blue sky. I took a few photos of the figures on the side and it was only when I looked up I saw people at the top. I decided to join them and bought a ticket, no queues this time. An elevator takes you up six floors and then there are stairs to the top. Well worth the price of the €10 ticket.

Monument to the Discoveries

This monument is located on the banks of the Tagus River. It is shaped like the bow of a caravel, standing at 184 ft tall. The leading figure is Prince Henry the Navigator and followed by 32 other significant figures from that era. (The Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th Centuries).

Views from the top

Belem Tower
25 de Abril Bridge
Sanctuary of Christ the King

Ajuda National Palace and Jeronimos Monastery.

In the basement of this monument is a cultural centre which showcases various exhibits over the centuries. I enjoyed all the murals on display here.

Feeling peckish by now I headed back into the Old Town and looked for a traditional Portuguese cafe for lunch. I found the perfect place.

Ginginha do Camo
Grilled Sardines

I didn’t think I could go wrong with a traditional dish of grilled sardines and a glass of Vino Verde.

With still time to go, I caught another bus up to the castle. It was too late to go in. I’ll try again tomorrow.

View from the top of Sao Jorge Castle

Out for dinner

A fabulous first day exploring the sights and streets of Lisbon. With so much to do it’s impossible to see everything in a few days. I am going to do my best.

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Streets of Lisbon

I’m in Lisbon for a few days and thought I would post some of the streets around this wonderful scenic city.  

More photos and posts to come, I’m without my laptop and find it quite time consuming on a phone or iPad.  I admire those bloggers who can post on the go.

Anyway Adeus for now, off to drink more Vino Verde.

~ Amazing Albania – Three nights in Tirana ~

Our journey through Albania is now coming to an end and our final destination is the capital of Albania, Tirana. I had read and been told that you only need one night here but I didn’t heed this advice much to my annoyance! One of the reasons was that we thought we would go Djati Express cable car. Sadly we didn’t get to do this for various reasons.

We were staying at Hotel Opera and after leaving the car in the carpark at the back of the hotel for the driver to pick up, we checked in to our 12th floor room. We had a fantastic room with a large verandah with no furniture though.

Also when we arrived in Tirana it was 37 degrees. At this point I was already thinking what were we going to do for three days. The first thing we did was find a restaurant for a very late lunch.

Restaurant Piano Bar Piazza

After a delicious lunch we set off exploring. Our hotel was within walking distance of Skanderberg Square. Named after the national hero Gjergj Kastrioti, also known as Skanderberg. He led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire, starting in 1444 and lasting for 25 years. There are some famous buildings around the Square and some seating areas, but we thought it was a bit underwhelming. We found the white tiles making up the Square to be almost blinding in the brilliant sunlight. We much preferred the tree lined boulevards providing welcome shade.

There was some amazing murals and sculptures dotted around and over the next two days we went walking to find them. Tirana is a wonderful walking city and there were so many other murals I never got to see.

Murals of Tirana

Mother's Care - Case Macleam
Mother’s Care
Artist – Case Macleam
BIBLIOTEKA – Franko Dine
Dog – MOTS
On the remaining walls of Tirana Castle

Sculptures and Statues

The angle of the camera makes this sculpture look bigger than it is!
Friendship Monument

A monument donated to Albania by Kuwait to remember the friendship between the two nations. It has the flag colours of Kuwait on the canopy.

Buildings and Churches

There are some spectacular buildings in Tirana that are easily comparable to other major cities around the world, and there are many structures in the process of being built.

The Plaza Hotel and Casino
Eyes of Tirana
4 Ever Green Skyscraper
National Historic Museum
Ministery of Agriculture
Resurrection of
Christ Orthodox Cathedral
Tirana

One morning we visited Bunk’art 2 and walked smack bang into the middle of a protest. At first I thought it was a queue to get in! There were dozens of police officers and a whole crew of media. It was a protest about the Israeli war.

Anyway we managed to dodge all the crowds and made our way down into the bunker. We both had completely the wrong idea about this place thinking it was an art museum, we were soon disabused of this notion. Quite a harrowing and depressing place to visit and we were relieved to make our way back up into the sunshine.

As you can see, dozens of police waiting for trouble

Tirana, Albania
The Media and Anthony!
Victims of the communist terror regime

BUNK’ART 2 reconstructs the history of the Albanian Ministry of Internal Affairs from 1912 to 1991 and reveals the secrets of “Sigurimi”, the political police that was the harsh persecution weapon used by the regime of Enver Hoxha. Source – Bunkart

I reminded Anthony it was a museum and not a department store and this jacket was not for sale.

The exhibits and information were quite horrific, menacing dogs and lists of torture, so I didn’t feel inclined to take many photos.

We did manage to find a department store after and Anthony wandered around for a while and I found a stool to sit and scroll!

During the day and night we wandered up and down the streets of the Blloku District, a small leafy suburb of Tirana with hip and happening bars and trendy shops.  During the era of Communist rule, it was a closed-off precinct for the party elite, and the villa of long-ruling dictator Enver Hoxha still stands.

The apartments were handed back to the owners when Hoxha was ousted as the deeds were never destroyed. It looks like they haven’t been maintained at all.

There are so many good restaurants in Tirana, especially traditional ones, which we enjoyed.

All in all we filled our time well in Tirana, although on hindsight we could have condensed it down to two nights. This city did grow on me and for a weekend break from European countries it’s ideal. Tirana is great for day trips to Durres or Berat also.

Information for travelling in Albania

There are plenty of ATMs available in the area, so accessing cash is convenient and hassle-free although cash is readily accepted everywhere.

Hiring a car is not difficult as I previously read, and it was relatively easy to arrange a one way booking – of course with a fee.

Driving is on the right hand side, so can be tricky if you’re from a country that’s opposite. Albanian drivers are fearless and impatient, pull over to let them pass for a stress free trip.

The currency is Lek, although Euros are taken. If you’re using cash Lek takes up more room in your wallet!

Travel off season – before or after summer.

I hope you’ve enjoyed travelling through Albania with us on this fantastic road trip. Albania is one of the most diverse and interesting countries we’ve ever been to.

Posted also as part of Leanne’s Lens Artist Challenge – Tourist Attractions

and Natalie’s Weekend Coffee Share/Public Art Challenge

~ Amazing Albania – Berat to Kruje ~

Kruje, located 20kms north of Tirana was our next destination. We were staying for one night in the Hotel Panorama and when we arrived mid-afternoon there were coaches either side of the small narrow road. There was parking but we couldn’t see where to stop to look for it. There was a carpark opposite but it was blocked by a coach, then a man appeared and said he would guide us in! It was just chaos but he seemed to know what he was doing and even took our cases for us. I couldn’t work out if he worked for the hotel or it was just a hobby directing the traffic.

Hotel Panorama at the back

It was very orderly inside and we were promptly shown to our room. After a short rest we decided to walk through the bazaar and then up to the castle. As Tirana was only a short distance it looked to be a busy destination and we could hear the hustle and bustle from our room.

Kruje Castle from our balcony
Our balcony

Kruje was like a mix of Gjirokaster and Berat. Cobbled streets, a bazaar and a castle upon the hill.

Various items for sale at the bazaar

Once we were at the top, we stopped for a drink in the cafe and rest! It was only a short walk but of course all uphill.

I can’t believe I didn’t take photos of the castle so have had to “borrow” one from the Albanian Tourist Industry. I was too busy taking in the views.

Looking for a place for dinner later we found the perfect spot with fabulous views. Something I did find odd in all of Albania was seeing groups of men in the evenings at cafes and bars, no women at all. Old and young, smoking and drinking. We walked down one small street in Kruje with cafes either side and they were full of just men. It would be hard travelling with a female companion to feel comfortable in these smaller places.

Interesting Facts: Edward Lear, the famous English landscape painter visited Albania in 1848, but Lord Byron in fact got there 40 years before in 1808. We saw many paintings by Lear in the places we visited. These small things intrigue me especially when I mention Albania to people and so many have asked, if it’s safe and where is it. I suppose the fact that it was closed off for nearly 50 years attributes to this.

A day and one night is plenty to see what Kruje has to offer and makes a good stopping off point to travel further North, which unfortunately we didn’t have time for. Our next and final destination is Tirana.

~ Amazing Albania – Himare to Berat ~

Another destination was on our itinerary today and after a leisurely breakfast, we said goodbye to Alex (not Nick as previously mentioned!) and his wife packed up the car and set off. Our drive would take us on the famous Llogora Pass and even though Anthony was driving my stomach had butterflies. The road is a high mountain pass in the Ceraunian Mountains with an elevation of over a 1,000 metres and is 20 miles long. The journey takes approximately 3 hours. We would be stopping frequently though to let tail gaters pass.

Passing through Dhermi

We were hoping that the roads would be fairly decent, but we did come across parts of the road that were being upgraded. (as above).

My heart was in my mouth most of the time and Anthony was getting slightly irritated with my comments of “watch out!”, “you’re too close to the edge”. Stopping for lunch was a welcome break.

The ubiquitous glass of wine

The Big Bunker located on the Llogara Pass. Albania has 700,000 bunkers dotted all over the country. Built during Hoxha’s reign, they were a drain on the economy and were never used for their intended purpose.

Berat

Arriving into Berat around 6 pm, we passed by the hotel and pulled over while I checked for parking. I promptly walked into a parking sign and nearly knocked myself out. A few people came over after they saw what happened, Anthony missed the whole thing and wondered why I sat down with my head in my hands. It was fortunate that the man outside the hotel saw and came to help.

On being taken up to our room, when we opened the door there was an overpowering smell of blocked sewers. I went back down and said it was impossible to stay there, the receptionist promptly found us another room, actually an upgrade but up four flights of stairs.

The view across the river from our room

Berat is best known for its white Ottoman houses and is also a Unesco World Heritage city. It’s approximately 2,400 years old and is situated on the Osum River.

Ura e Varur
Gorica Bridge

We were spending just one night here so dropping our bags in our room we set off exploring. Behind our hotel there was a mass of alleyways, with shops and restaurants, going up into the hills. Across the river where the houses were Berat Castle sits on top of a rocky hill. Deciding to give the castle a miss we spent the time looking around.

“Ali through the looking glass”

Walking across the bridge to the other side we walked through more alleys to find a restaurant I had looked up. It didn’t have a view but was in such a quaint garden overhung with lights on the grapevines and was perfect. There seemed to be only one oldish man running it and when I asked for the menu, he just reeled off three dishes in the quietest voice. It was then a surprise to see him take up his guitar and provide some entertainment.

Berat is well worth an overnight stay to experience the beauty of the nighttime lights of the houses.

~ Amazing Albania – Gjirokaster to Himare ~

Continuing our adventures through Albania, we set off today for Himare, along the Albanian Riviera. We had to bypass Saranda again as there is no straight road through. So we drove all the way down the mountain and then had to climb up again and down to Livadi Beach in Himare where we were staying!

We had to stop and take a photo of the shepherd and his herd.

Scenes likes this were very typical driving along the highway.

Arriving at Livadi Beach around 5pm, we located our hotel half way down the gravel track along the beach. I have to say we were a bit disappointed on first sight as it looked like a prison block. There didn’t seem to be anyone about, so I walked around the whole block and up the stairs, there was no-one in reception either. Walking down to the beach, past the bar I spotted a man lying fully clothed asleep under an umbrella. Coughing politely and waking him up I asked if he knew where the owner was, he jumped up quickly and made a call! Five minutes later his wife came from the back of the hotel and said she was trying to have a rest, obviously leaving hubby in charge! Anyway we went up to our room, which was just perfect, newly furnished with a balcony that overlooked the ocean.

We had two nights here, so a bit of R and R for Anthony after all that driving.

The beach stretched for miles and I’m glad we came just out of season, because the rows and rows of beach umbrellas told of the crowds that were expected.

Beds to arrive later!
Livadi Beach
Livadi Beach
Livadi Beach
Livadi Beach

There didn’t seem to be that many hotels for the amount of beds, but we saw a few campsites. Actually Livadi Beach was a beautiful tranquil place, and at night we could leave the window open and listen to the waves gently lapping against the shore.

Over the next two days Anthony got chatting to Nick “the layed laid back” husband and what his opinions were. He said most Albanians were lazy (pot/kettle came to mind) and many had left to work overseas. We hadn’t found this to be the case so far. His wife couldn’t have been a better hostess, even doing our laundry for free.

Being presented with a large home made bottle of Raki
View from the garden at the back of the hotel
Flower lined walk way

I did venture into the sea a few times, but coming out was a problem and lucky I had reef shoes. In the end I perfected my technique of digging a heel into the pebbles and launching myself forward, but it was a case of one step forward and two back. Not a graceful move.

We were told to help ourselves to drinks if there was no-one around.

Himare Old Town and Castle

The next day we drove back up to Himare Old Town, parked the car and walked up to Himare Castle.

Quite a slog for me as the paths were not even and made up of broken stones, hard on the feet. Absolutely fascinating to see how people are living within the walls of the old town and incorporating the walls into their homes. The walls date back to the 5th or 6th Century.

A small church at the bottom of the hill
Private dwellings

The aroma from the jasmine made the walk easier, taking deep breaths of perfumed air. We found the smallest cafe at the top with stunning views across Himare. The cafe and apartment where the owners lived were also incorporated into the ruins.

Below are some of the photos of the castle and surroundings.

The church of Sts. Sergius and Bacchus

This church was thought to have been constructed at the end of the 10th century or early 11th century. The murals are post-Byzantine and the colours still so vibrant.

I would definitely recommend a trip up to Himare Castle, with lunch at the top.

Back at the bottom I saw an old resident resting on a wall and couldn’t resist a shot, especially when he smiled.

Oops, I only noticed after!

Livadi Beach was perfect for a two night stop. Maybe if we ever get to visit Albania again we might try another area along the coast.

~ Amazing Albania – A Visit to Gjirokastra Castle ~

After a delicious breakfast served by Anna, the daughter-in-law of the owner, we packed our bags and left them with her so we could visit the castle. Breakfasts in Albania are normally cakes, breads and pastries, but none offer gluten free options, which is perhaps a good thing because I would be piling on the pounds. There is always a great variety of fruit and yoghurt though plus freshly made omelettes, so I didn’t starve.

Of course it was another uphill slog, but what castle worth its salt is not at the top of a hill. Gjirokaster Castle has a fascinating and also rather grim history, especially so in Hoxha’s reign. King Zog ruled Albania from 1928 until he was ousted by Mussolini in 1939. Zog was also known as a cruel dictator. Hoxha reigned from 1944 until he was toppled in 1992. It was a long and terrible time for Albanian people as we found out by visiting the castle.

There was a resistance movement during Hoxha’s reign but any opposition to the harsh rules were met with severe retribution, including internal exile, long-term imprisonment and execution. During his forty-year reign, the Albanian leader banned religion, forbade travel and outlawed private property. 

A resistance Fighter
WWII canons

The castle is also known as “The Seven Windows Prison” of which there are five below. The guards used to go into these cells each morning and bang iron frames on the windows to check they were secure. The noise rang out over the villages below as a reminder there was no escape.

We opted also to have a walk around the museum which was an added cost, but the price was minimal and it seemed empty. In here we learnt so much more about the history and the horrors that went on, quite sobering to read. It was interesting to note that not much is written about Hoxha and what photo they did have, his face was scratched out.

A US plane shot down during WWII
View from the top

It is said that the castle was originally built in the 4th century, it is the largest castle in Albania. I’m always drawn to castles because of their history and Anthony enjoys a walk around a museum reading every word printed, always adding to his extensive knowledge.

Our next destination is along the coast, part of the Albanian Riviera. There are no highways across Albania – East to West only North to South – so there is much backtracking or I have simply not planned the route well. As Anthony has no clue about where we are headed next, he won’t realise, I just tell him the planned itinerary for that day, very exciting for him!

~ Amazing Albania – Sarande to Gjirokastra ~

Today’s journey takes us to Gjirokastra, known as the Stone City, nestled in the mountains. This picturesque town has cobblestone streets, a huge castle, and a colourful market bazaar. But first, we make a slight detour to visit the beautiful Blue Eye.

Gjirokastra is approximately an hour’s drive from Sarande but it seems so much longer because of the sharp hair pin bends and the need to slow down. Albanian drivers know no fear and will pass two at a time on a bend! We picked up a hire car from a rental agency called Narnia! I wasn’t sure what to expect on entering, hopefully not a wardrobe door. I had been liaising with Kristina for a few weeks about price, duration and the one way transfer fee. She gave me the best offer of all the places I looked at.

There was a long delay in signing off on all the documents and payment, due to the fact her credit card machine was not working. The ATMs outside both only dispensed 100 Euros at a time, but miraculously Anthony found £300 emergency money in his wallet. We could not leave a deposit though only an imprint of the credit card, but were asked to leave a passport or driving licence to be returned by the driver on pick up, not a viable option! Anyway she agreed that we could forego this, just really wanted our money.

The car was an old manual Citroen 3 and seemed in good condition. Anthony did say after he was a bit daunted about the prospect of driving in Albania, but at the end he enjoyed himself immensely.

Our first stop was The Blue Eye, a natural water spring featuring the clear blue water of a depth of 50 metres. It is essentially a tourist spot and not free to enter. As it was on our way we thought we would check it out. On arrival you have to pay for parking plus entry to the park. It is quite a walk from the car park but there is a “train” to take you to the top. Of course I took the train, whilst Anthony walked.

You can also hire electric scooters which I saw many people doing, although I’m not sure they realised how dangerous it would be on the way down. I actually saw one young guy come flying off into the bushes, nettles I believe!

I can’t say I was all that impressed with this attraction, yes it was pretty but just another sight. Also you are not meant to swim, but rules in Albania seem very flexible, and I saw many people going in.

After this it was onwards and upwards towards Gjirokastra. I was actually starting to worry about driving up so high, but my trusty chauffeur seemed to have everything under control. I had the address of the hotel in my google maps but it took us three goes to get to the right place with Anthony having to do crazy three point turns to retrace our tracks. We thought we had the correct hotel and the owner actually parked our car and took our bags out only to tell us we had the wrong hotel!

Our first sight of Gjirokastra

Our hotel and the balcony off our room.

We were only here for the night and so as soon as we had checked in we set off to explore. This small town was just so delightful and I loved everything about it immediately. It was a short walk down to the narrow cobblestoned streets where the bazaar was with all the restaurants and bars. It reminded me of a mini Montmartre.

There were still a few tour groups around and the atmosphere and vibe was buzzing. You can visit here on a day trip but that means you don’t get to experience the appeal of this lovely town at night.

Memi Bey mosque built during the Ottoman period in 1757

Anthony couldn’t believe his eyes when a parade of vintage cars drove through the cobble stoned streets, tooting and blaring their horns down the hill. Right up (or down) his alley.

It was also a popular place for wedding photos as we watched from a street side cafe the happy couple posing.

A cute photo bomber!
A small monument to unsung heroes
He ended up buying a traditional hat!

Some of the items that could be bought at the bazaar, there must be a market for old war objects and clothes as nearly every shop had things of this nature.

This building was just at the back of our hotel and once must have been a thriving hub of entertainment. There was a plaque with a poem next to it.

Very poignant

We had a cocktail and beer at the Gallery Irish Pub which had great views. For dinner Anthony wanted to eat somewhere traditional, so we found a tiny place tucked between shops called Verdeja. There was only one room with four tables and looked to be a family owned restaurant. The man of the place donned an apron and hat and looked on while his wife did all of the work! Further away from the coast the cuisine consists largely of meat, all parts of an animal on offer, as Anthony loves tripe he was keen to try this local dish. I preferred the vegetarian options of stuffed peppers or aubergines.

Walking around the bazaar through the narrow streets and browsing the shops was the highlight of the day. It was interesting to learn that this was Enva Hoxha’s birthplace, which it was why everywhere was so well kept.

Next up Gjirokaster Castle