I’m in Lisbon for a few days and thought I would post some of the streets around this wonderful scenic city.
More photos and posts to come, I’m without my laptop and find it quite time consuming on a phone or iPad. I admire those bloggers who can post on the go.
Anyway Adeus for now, off to drink more Vino Verde.
Our journey through Albania is now coming to an end and our final destination is the capital of Albania, Tirana. I had read and been told that you only need one night here but I didn’t heed this advice much to my annoyance! One of the reasons was that we thought we would go Djati Express cable car. Sadly we didn’t get to do this for various reasons.
We were staying at Hotel Opera and after leaving the car in the carpark at the back of the hotel for the driver to pick up, we checked in to our 12th floor room. We had a fantastic room with a large verandah with no furniture though.
Also when we arrived in Tirana it was 37 degrees. At this point I was already thinking what were we going to do for three days. The first thing we did was find a restaurant for a very late lunch.
After a delicious lunch we set off exploring. Our hotel was within walking distance of Skanderberg Square. Named after the national hero Gjergj Kastrioti, also known as Skanderberg. He led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire, starting in 1444 and lasting for 25 years. There are some famous buildings around the Square and some seating areas, but we thought it was a bit underwhelming. We found the white tiles making up the Square to be almost blinding in the brilliant sunlight. We much preferred the tree lined boulevards providing welcome shade.
There was some amazing murals and sculptures dotted around and over the next two days we went walking to find them. Tirana is a wonderful walking city and there were so many other murals I never got to see.
A monument donated to Albania by Kuwait to remember the friendship between the two nations. It has the flag colours of Kuwait on the canopy.
There are some spectacular buildings in Tirana that are easily comparable to other major cities around the world, and there are many structures in the process of being built.
One morning we visited Bunk’art 2 and walked smack bang into the middle of a protest. At first I thought it was a queue to get in! There were dozens of police officers and a whole crew of media. It was a protest about the Israeli war.
Anyway we managed to dodge all the crowds and made our way down into the bunker. We both had completely the wrong idea about this place thinking it was an art museum, we were soon disabused of this notion. Quite a harrowing and depressing place to visit and we were relieved to make our way back up into the sunshine.
As you can see, dozens of police waiting for trouble
BUNK’ART 2 reconstructs the history of the Albanian Ministry of Internal Affairs from 1912 to 1991 and reveals the secrets of “Sigurimi”, the political police that was the harsh persecution weapon used by the regime of Enver Hoxha. Source – Bunkart
I reminded Anthony it was a museum and not a department store and this jacket was not for sale.
The exhibits and information were quite horrific, menacing dogs and lists of torture, so I didn’t feel inclined to take many photos.
We did manage to find a department store after and Anthony wandered around for a while and I found a stool to sit and scroll!
During the day and night we wandered up and down the streets of the Blloku District, a small leafy suburb of Tirana with hip and happening bars and trendy shops. During the era of Communist rule, it was a closed-off precinct for the party elite, and the villa of long-ruling dictator Enver Hoxha still stands.
The apartments were handed back to the owners when Hoxha was ousted as the deeds were never destroyed. It looks like they haven’t been maintained at all.
There are so many good restaurants in Tirana, especially traditional ones, which we enjoyed.
All in all we filled our time well in Tirana, although on hindsight we could have condensed it down to two nights. This city did grow on me and for a weekend break from European countries it’s ideal. Tirana is great for day trips to Durres or Berat also.
There are plenty of ATMs available in the area, so accessing cash is convenient and hassle-free although cash is readily accepted everywhere.
Hiring a car is not difficult as I previously read, and it was relatively easy to arrange a one way booking – of course with a fee.
Driving is on the right hand side, so can be tricky if you’re from a country that’s opposite. Albanian drivers are fearless and impatient, pull over to let them pass for a stress free trip.
The currency is Lek, although Euros are taken. If you’re using cash Lek takes up more room in your wallet!
Travel off season – before or after summer.
I hope you’ve enjoyed travelling through Albania with us on this fantastic road trip. Albania is one of the most diverse and interesting countries we’ve ever been to.
Posted also as part of Leanne’s Lens Artist Challenge – Tourist Attractions
and Natalie’s Weekend Coffee Share/Public Art Challenge
Kruje, located 20kms north of Tirana was our next destination. We were staying for one night in the Hotel Panorama and when we arrived mid-afternoon there were coaches either side of the small narrow road. There was parking but we couldn’t see where to stop to look for it. There was a carpark opposite but it was blocked by a coach, then a man appeared and said he would guide us in! It was just chaos but he seemed to know what he was doing and even took our cases for us. I couldn’t work out if he worked for the hotel or it was just a hobby directing the traffic.
It was very orderly inside and we were promptly shown to our room. After a short rest we decided to walk through the bazaar and then up to the castle. As Tirana was only a short distance it looked to be a busy destination and we could hear the hustle and bustle from our room.
Kruje was like a mix of Gjirokaster and Berat. Cobbled streets, a bazaar and a castle upon the hill.
Various items for sale at the bazaar
Once we were at the top, we stopped for a drink in the cafe and rest! It was only a short walk but of course all uphill.
I can’t believe I didn’t take photos of the castle so have had to “borrow” one from the Albanian Tourist Industry. I was too busy taking in the views.
Looking for a place for dinner later we found the perfect spot with fabulous views. Something I did find odd in all of Albania was seeing groups of men in the evenings at cafes and bars, no women at all. Old and young, smoking and drinking. We walked down one small street in Kruje with cafes either side and they were full of just men. It would be hard travelling with a female companion to feel comfortable in these smaller places.
Interesting Facts: Edward Lear, the famous English landscape painter visited Albania in 1848, but Lord Byron in fact got there 40 years before in 1808. We saw many paintings by Lear in the places we visited. These small things intrigue me especially when I mention Albania to people and so many have asked, if it’s safe and where is it. I suppose the fact that it was closed off for nearly 50 years attributes to this.
A day and one night is plenty to see what Kruje has to offer and makes a good stopping off point to travel further North, which unfortunately we didn’t have time for. Our next and final destination is Tirana.
Another destination was on our itinerary today and after a leisurely breakfast, we said goodbye to Alex (not Nick as previously mentioned!) and his wife packed up the car and set off. Our drive would take us on the famous Llogora Pass and even though Anthony was driving my stomach had butterflies. The road is a high mountain pass in the Ceraunian Mountains with an elevation of over a 1,000 metres and is 20 miles long. The journey takes approximately 3 hours. We would be stopping frequently though to let tail gaters pass.
We were hoping that the roads would be fairly decent, but we did come across parts of the road that were being upgraded. (as above).
My heart was in my mouth most of the time and Anthony was getting slightly irritated with my comments of “watch out!”, “you’re too close to the edge”. Stopping for lunch was a welcome break.
The Big Bunker located on the Llogara Pass. Albania has 700,000 bunkers dotted all over the country. Built during Hoxha’s reign, they were a drain on the economy and were never used for their intended purpose.
Arriving into Berat around 6 pm, we passed by the hotel and pulled over while I checked for parking. I promptly walked into a parking sign and nearly knocked myself out. A few people came over after they saw what happened, Anthony missed the whole thing and wondered why I sat down with my head in my hands. It was fortunate that the man outside the hotel saw and came to help.
On being taken up to our room, when we opened the door there was an overpowering smell of blocked sewers. I went back down and said it was impossible to stay there, the receptionist promptly found us another room, actually an upgrade but up four flights of stairs.
Berat is best known for its white Ottoman houses and is also a Unesco World Heritage city. It’s approximately 2,400 years old and is situated on the Osum River.
We were spending just one night here so dropping our bags in our room we set off exploring. Behind our hotel there was a mass of alleyways, with shops and restaurants, going up into the hills. Across the river where the houses were Berat Castle sits on top of a rocky hill. Deciding to give the castle a miss we spent the time looking around.
Walking across the bridge to the other side we walked through more alleys to find a restaurant I had looked up. It didn’t have a view but was in such a quaint garden overhung with lights on the grapevines and was perfect. There seemed to be only one oldish man running it and when I asked for the menu, he just reeled off three dishes in the quietest voice. It was then a surprise to see him take up his guitar and provide some entertainment.
Berat is well worth an overnight stay to experience the beauty of the nighttime lights of the houses.
Continuing our adventures through Albania, we set off today for Himare, along the Albanian Riviera. We had to bypass Saranda again as there is no straight road through. So we drove all the way down the mountain and then had to climb up again and down to Livadi Beach in Himare where we were staying!
We had to stop and take a photo of the shepherd and his herd.
Scenes likes this were very typical driving along the highway.
Arriving at Livadi Beach around 5pm, we located our hotel half way down the gravel track along the beach. I have to say we were a bit disappointed on first sight as it looked like a prison block. There didn’t seem to be anyone about, so I walked around the whole block and up the stairs, there was no-one in reception either. Walking down to the beach, past the bar I spotted a man lying fully clothed asleep under an umbrella. Coughing politely and waking him up I asked if he knew where the owner was, he jumped up quickly and made a call! Five minutes later his wife came from the back of the hotel and said she was trying to have a rest, obviously leaving hubby in charge! Anyway we went up to our room, which was just perfect, newly furnished with a balcony that overlooked the ocean.
We had two nights here, so a bit of R and R for Anthony after all that driving.
The beach stretched for miles and I’m glad we came just out of season, because the rows and rows of beach umbrellas told of the crowds that were expected.
There didn’t seem to be that many hotels for the amount of beds, but we saw a few campsites. Actually Livadi Beach was a beautiful tranquil place, and at night we could leave the window open and listen to the waves gently lapping against the shore.
Over the next two days Anthony got chatting to Nick “the layed laid back” husband and what his opinions were. He said most Albanians were lazy (pot/kettle came to mind) and many had left to work overseas. We hadn’t found this to be the case so far. His wife couldn’t have been a better hostess, even doing our laundry for free.
I did venture into the sea a few times, but coming out was a problem and lucky I had reef shoes. In the end I perfected my technique of digging a heel into the pebbles and launching myself forward, but it was a case of one step forward and two back. Not a graceful move.
We were told to help ourselves to drinks if there was no-one around.
The next day we drove back up to Himare Old Town, parked the car and walked up to Himare Castle.
Quite a slog for me as the paths were not even and made up of broken stones, hard on the feet. Absolutely fascinating to see how people are living within the walls of the old town and incorporating the walls into their homes. The walls date back to the 5th or 6th Century.
The aroma from the jasmine made the walk easier, taking deep breaths of perfumed air. We found the smallest cafe at the top with stunning views across Himare. The cafe and apartment where the owners lived were also incorporated into the ruins.
Below are some of the photos of the castle and surroundings.
The church of Sts. Sergius and Bacchus
This church was thought to have been constructed at the end of the 10th century or early 11th century. The murals are post-Byzantine and the colours still so vibrant.
I would definitely recommend a trip up to Himare Castle, with lunch at the top.
Back at the bottom I saw an old resident resting on a wall and couldn’t resist a shot, especially when he smiled.
Livadi Beach was perfect for a two night stop. Maybe if we ever get to visit Albania again we might try another area along the coast.
After a delicious breakfast served by Anna, the daughter-in-law of the owner, we packed our bags and left them with her so we could visit the castle. Breakfasts in Albania are normally cakes, breads and pastries, but none offer gluten free options, which is perhaps a good thing because I would be piling on the pounds. There is always a great variety of fruit and yoghurt though plus freshly made omelettes, so I didn’t starve.
Of course it was another uphill slog, but what castle worth its salt is not at the top of a hill. Gjirokaster Castle has a fascinating and also rather grim history, especially so in Hoxha’s reign. King Zog ruled Albania from 1928 until he was ousted by Mussolini in 1939. Zog was also known as a cruel dictator. Hoxha reigned from 1944 until he was toppled in 1992. It was a long and terrible time for Albanian people as we found out by visiting the castle.
There was a resistance movement during Hoxha’s reign but any opposition to the harsh rules were met with severe retribution, including internal exile, long-term imprisonment and execution. During his forty-year reign, the Albanian leader banned religion, forbade travel and outlawed private property.
The castle is also known as “The Seven Windows Prison” of which there are five below. The guards used to go into these cells each morning and bang iron frames on the windows to check they were secure. The noise rang out over the villages below as a reminder there was no escape.
We opted also to have a walk around the museum which was an added cost, but the price was minimal and it seemed empty. In here we learnt so much more about the history and the horrors that went on, quite sobering to read. It was interesting to note that not much is written about Hoxha and what photo they did have, his face was scratched out.
It is said that the castle was originally built in the 4th century, it is the largest castle in Albania. I’m always drawn to castles because of their history and Anthony enjoys a walk around a museum reading every word printed, always adding to his extensive knowledge.
Our next destination is along the coast, part of the Albanian Riviera. There are no highways across Albania – East to West only North to South – so there is much backtracking or I have simply not planned the route well. As Anthony has no clue about where we are headed next, he won’t realise, I just tell him the planned itinerary for that day, very exciting for him!
Today’s journey takes us to Gjirokastra, known as the Stone City, nestled in the mountains. This picturesque town has cobblestone streets, a huge castle, and a colourful market bazaar. But first, we make a slight detour to visit the beautiful Blue Eye.
Gjirokastra is approximately an hour’s drive from Sarande but it seems so much longer because of the sharp hair pin bends and the need to slow down. Albanian drivers know no fear and will pass two at a time on a bend! We picked up a hire car from a rental agency called Narnia! I wasn’t sure what to expect on entering, hopefully not a wardrobe door. I had been liaising with Kristina for a few weeks about price, duration and the one way transfer fee. She gave me the best offer of all the places I looked at.
There was a long delay in signing off on all the documents and payment, due to the fact her credit card machine was not working. The ATMs outside both only dispensed 100 Euros at a time, but miraculously Anthony found £300 emergency money in his wallet. We could not leave a deposit though only an imprint of the credit card, but were asked to leave a passport or driving licence to be returned by the driver on pick up, not a viable option! Anyway she agreed that we could forego this, just really wanted our money.
The car was an old manual Citroen 3 and seemed in good condition. Anthony did say after he was a bit daunted about the prospect of driving in Albania, but at the end he enjoyed himself immensely.
Our first stop was The Blue Eye, a natural water spring featuring the clear blue water of a depth of 50 metres. It is essentially a tourist spot and not free to enter. As it was on our way we thought we would check it out. On arrival you have to pay for parking plus entry to the park. It is quite a walk from the car park but there is a “train” to take you to the top. Of course I took the train, whilst Anthony walked.
You can also hire electric scooters which I saw many people doing, although I’m not sure they realised how dangerous it would be on the way down. I actually saw one young guy come flying off into the bushes, nettles I believe!
I can’t say I was all that impressed with this attraction, yes it was pretty but just another sight. Also you are not meant to swim, but rules in Albania seem very flexible, and I saw many people going in.
After this it was onwards and upwards towards Gjirokastra. I was actually starting to worry about driving up so high, but my trusty chauffeur seemed to have everything under control. I had the address of the hotel in my google maps but it took us three goes to get to the right place with Anthony having to do crazy three point turns to retrace our tracks. We thought we had the correct hotel and the owner actually parked our car and took our bags out only to tell us we had the wrong hotel!
Our first sight of Gjirokastra
Our hotel and the balcony off our room.
We were only here for the night and so as soon as we had checked in we set off to explore. This small town was just so delightful and I loved everything about it immediately. It was a short walk down to the narrow cobblestoned streets where the bazaar was with all the restaurants and bars. It reminded me of a mini Montmartre.
There were still a few tour groups around and the atmosphere and vibe was buzzing. You can visit here on a day trip but that means you don’t get to experience the appeal of this lovely town at night.
Anthony couldn’t believe his eyes when a parade of vintage cars drove through the cobble stoned streets, tooting and blaring their horns down the hill. Right up (or down) his alley.
It was also a popular place for wedding photos as we watched from a street side cafe the happy couple posing.
Some of the items that could be bought at the bazaar, there must be a market for old war objects and clothes as nearly every shop had things of this nature.
This building was just at the back of our hotel and once must have been a thriving hub of entertainment. There was a plaque with a poem next to it.
Very poignant
We had a cocktail and beer at the Gallery Irish Pub which had great views. For dinner Anthony wanted to eat somewhere traditional, so we found a tiny place tucked between shops called Verdeja. There was only one room with four tables and looked to be a family owned restaurant. The man of the place donned an apron and hat and looked on while his wife did all of the work! Further away from the coast the cuisine consists largely of meat, all parts of an animal on offer, as Anthony loves tripe he was keen to try this local dish. I preferred the vegetarian options of stuffed peppers or aubergines.
Walking around the bazaar through the narrow streets and browsing the shops was the highlight of the day. It was interesting to learn that this was Enva Hoxha’s birthplace, which it was why everywhere was so well kept.
Next up Gjirokaster Castle
Lekuresi Castle is situated at the top of Lekuresi Hill, just behind Sarande itself. You can drive there but as it was a cloudy day we decided to walk. From the directions on my phone it was supposed to take an hour. I don’t think I’ve ever walked so far or so high in my life. Part of the route is along a main road, up the hill (it’s all uphill) and trucks and buses were passing by at a high speed. We did stop at a hotel on the way up for glasses of sparkling water on the terrace.
When we arrived at the bottom, Anthony was up and away walking far ahead of me, I walk far too slow for anyone. He did occasionally wait to see if I was managing. It was a slow and steady walk for me, we hardly saw anyone else, only tour buses going up and down.
Not much of the castle is still intact and the gift shop and cafe have been built into the remains. This was something I found odd in all of Albania, that new buildings were allowed to be incorporated into ancient remains.
Lekuresi Castle was built in 1537 by the Ottoman emperor Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, when he attacked Corfu and needed control over the harbor and the Saranda-Butrint road. With its strategic location, the castle offered protection against the Venetians and held a garrison of about 200 soldiers. The castle, which used to inhabit the village of Lëkurës, was raided under the attack by Ali Pasha of Tepelena in the 18th century and has been abandoned ever since 1878. Source – Visit Saranda
The views are magnificent and it was well worth the climb to admire the scenes of the valleys below.
I had to use the torch on my phone to get a good look at these mosaic tiles, I wonder how they will preserve these, as they are open to the elements.
The tour buses were out in force that day and it was amusing to watch the various tour leaders with their numbered placards walking around trying to herd up their passengers. Equally it was as funny to watch the passengers trying to find their bus.
One thing I knew for sure I would not be walking back. We had passed a restaurant on the way up and would be having lunch there and taking a taxi back. It had been recommended to us as an excellent place to eat. The restaurant was still a 20 minute walk though from the castle though.
I was amazed that I completed this climb, no mean feat for me. We did sit for a few hours enjoying our lunch and the views and looking up the history of the castle.
This is the first in a series of posts about our wonderful visit to Albania. It’s an 11 day itinerary where we visited coasts, mountains and cities.
We checked out of the Odysseus Hotel in Corfu and took the bus to Corfu Port for our ferry to Sarande. Just €10 for a one way crossing which I thought was good value including luggage. The slow crossing takes around 75 minutes and the fast 30 minutes. We took the slow ferry and were able to go back and forth outside.
Sarande is the gateway to the Albanian Riviera and around 33,000 people live here. In recent years there has been a steady increase in the number of overseas visitors and cruise ships. Several people I mentioned it to didn’t know where it was or if it was safe to travel there.
First glimpses of Sarande from the ferry
I was surprised to see how built up it was, with hotels and apartments jostling for space on the seafront and the streets behind.
Researching this trip took many weeks, with hotels booked, cancelled and rebooked. Changes in destinations, lots of reading other articles and blogs about where to go and not to go, I felt like I knew the place like the back of my hand.
Our hotel was just a five minute walk from the port and even though we were early for check in our room was ready. The Royal Sarande Hotel was right on the sea front, it sounds grand but it was a small family run boutique hotel. We had a tiny verandah attached to our room overlooking the beach. It was in the perfect spot and Jimmy and his wife and staff looked after us admirably.
There is a boulevard along the seafront that stretches for one kilometre that comes alive at night. The locals come out in the evening for a stroll and get together with friends. With so many restaurants that line the promenade it was hard to make a choice.
It’s hard to imagine from these scenes that this country was once locked in from outsiders and overruled by the harsh dictator Enva Hoxha. Some of these locals would have lived their early lives in brutal conditions, as we later came to see and learn. That night there was a fish festival going on and there were many food stalls selling all kinds of seafoods and long tables to sit and eat. There was also a music concert with different bands performing. All in all it was a fun and vibrant atmosphere.
Waking up one morning we saw that a large cruise ship from the Holland America line had docked. We sat and watched each life boat being lowered and taken to shore. The passengers were met by coaches to begin their day of sightseeing. We did meet some of these passengers later when we walked up to Lekursi Castle.
We were both looking forward to seeing more of Sarande over the next couple of days with visits to Butrint and Lekursi Castle planned.
Located on the North Western end of Corfu, this beautiful village is surrounded by mountainous tree lined and granite hills. They tower over the glistening bays below. This was our last day in Corfu and our first stop of the day was a walk up to the Byzantine monastery. First established in the 13th century, the current buildings date back to the 18th century. It’s around a 20 minute walk up to the top where we joined dozens of others! We were still able to have a good look around though, on hindsight we should have left it until late afternoon.
Views of the different bays and the surrounding cliffs
The gardens were wonderful to walk through and the smell from the jasmine and honeysuckle was overwhelming. Jasmine is one of my favourite flowers.
After this we walked back to our hotel and hopped in the car to see what else was on offer. My intention was to drive to Glyfada Beach and on the way we drove through Pelakes Village which looked so inviting that we decided to stop for lunch. We found a lovely roadside taverna and settled in for another Greek salad and a glass of the local white wine.
After lunch we had a walk up and down the back alleys and around the houses. There is a hike called Kaiser’s Throne Loop which is what I think we did!
We carried onto Glyfada and Anthony had to drive down and around the most curving hair pin bends and switchbacks that you can imagine! Finally when we reached there it was so busy and touristy looking and overrun with cars that we decided not to stay. As it was just one way in, we had no choice but to drive back the same way. No problem for my experienced and trusty driver.
I think we chose well with Paleokastritsa after seeing some of the other places in Corfu and I would definitely recommend visiting for a few days.
Our last night was spent back at our favourite restaurant Limani’s, once Anthony has found a place he likes and feels comfortable, he won’t venture anywhere else!
