~ Amazing Albania – Himare to Berat ~

Another destination was on our itinerary today and after a leisurely breakfast, we said goodbye to Alex (not Nick as previously mentioned!) and his wife packed up the car and set off. Our drive would take us on the famous Llogora Pass and even though Anthony was driving my stomach had butterflies. The road is a high mountain pass in the Ceraunian Mountains with an elevation of over a 1,000 metres and is 20 miles long. The journey takes approximately 3 hours. We would be stopping frequently though to let tail gaters pass.

We were hoping that the roads would be fairly decent, but we did come across parts of the road that were being upgraded. (as above).

My heart was in my mouth most of the time and Anthony was getting slightly irritated with my comments of “watch out!”, “you’re too close to the edge”. Stopping for lunch was a welcome break.

The ubiquitous glass of wine

The Big Bunker located on the Llogara Pass. Albania has 700,000 bunkers dotted all over the country. Built during Hoxha’s reign, they were a drain on the economy and were never used for their intended purpose.

Arriving into Berat around 6 pm, we passed by the hotel and pulled over while I checked for parking. I promptly walked into a parking sign and nearly knocked myself out. A few people came over after they saw what happened, Anthony missed the whole thing and wondered why I sat down with my head in my hands. It was fortunate that the man outside the hotel saw and came to help.

On being taken up to our room, when we opened the door there was an overpowering smell of blocked sewers. I went back down and said it was impossible to stay there, the receptionist promptly found us another room, actually an upgrade but up four flights of stairs.

The view across the river from our room

Berat is best known for its white Ottoman houses and is also a Unesco World Heritage city. It’s approximately 2,400 years old and is situated on the Osum River.

We were spending just one night here so dropping our bags in our room we set off exploring. Behind our hotel there was a mass of alleyways, with shops and restaurants, going up into the hills. Across the river where the houses were Berat Castle sits on top of a rocky hill. Deciding to give the castle a miss we spent the time looking around.

Walking across the bridge to the other side we walked through more alleys to find a restaurant I had looked up. It didn’t have a view but was in such a quaint garden overhung with lights on the grapevines and was perfect. There seemed to be only one oldish man running it and when I asked for the menu, he just reeled off three dishes in the quietest voice. It was then a surprise to see him take up his guitar and provide some entertainment.

Berat is well worth an overnight stay to experience the beauty of the nighttime lights of the houses.


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Author: Alison

Hi A nanny of two and a mum of two adult children, mum to two fur babies and wife of one. I love to travel and up until recently travelled the world, now exploring Western Australia! I play bridge, board games, read dance and blog in my spare time.

23 thoughts on “~ Amazing Albania – Himare to Berat ~”

  1. Honestly, what a fabulous location, but a bit fraught. I love driving through mountains, but I don’t drive and usually just put full trust in Mick. Sometimes have a waiver though! And then walking into that post! You’re as bad as me. Good job no real damage done- just seeing a few stars! Love the moonlight ending.

  2. Ah, the city of a thousand windows, as they say! We stayed a few nights in Berat, the town had so many hidden gems in those back streets we felt really content there. And, I know you didn’t go, but the castle is so, so interesting, not least because quite a large community still lives in parts of the ancient citadel. Glad you liked it too 😊

    1. We only had the one night and we were a bit castled out, so to speak. Also my head was so sore after clipping it on the parking sign. But we loved those back streets

  3. The drive looks exciting although I wouldn’t want to be the driver! And Berat looks lovely both by day and night. Walking into that sign is exactly the sort of thing I would do – in fact, I’ve done something very similar in the past so I know exactly how much it will have hurt you 🤗

    1. The drive was exhausting for me 😂 even though I wasn’t the driver
      I have to be more careful walking ..it’s either signs or stairs!

  4. I can quite see why you would want to go t9 Berat- what a place and so much history. And I would have loved to drive the Llogora pass….

  5. Berat looks like the kind of places we love, although it sounds like they need to raise the height of their parking signs! Maggie

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