Another destination was on our itinerary today and after a leisurely breakfast, we said goodbye to Alex (not Nick as previously mentioned!) and his wife packed up the car and set off. Our drive would take us on the famous Llogora Pass and even though Anthony was driving my stomach had butterflies. The road is a high mountain pass in the Ceraunian Mountains with an elevation of over a 1,000 metres and is 20 miles long. The journey takes approximately 3 hours. We would be stopping frequently though to let tail gaters pass.
We were hoping that the roads would be fairly decent, but we did come across parts of the road that were being upgraded. (as above).
My heart was in my mouth most of the time and Anthony was getting slightly irritated with my comments of “watch out!”, “you’re too close to the edge”. Stopping for lunch was a welcome break.
The Big Bunker located on the Llogara Pass. Albania has 700,000 bunkers dotted all over the country. Built during Hoxha’s reign, they were a drain on the economy and were never used for their intended purpose.
Berat
Arriving into Berat around 6 pm, we passed by the hotel and pulled over while I checked for parking. I promptly walked into a parking sign and nearly knocked myself out. A few people came over after they saw what happened, Anthony missed the whole thing and wondered why I sat down with my head in my hands. It was fortunate that the man outside the hotel saw and came to help.
On being taken up to our room, when we opened the door there was an overpowering smell of blocked sewers. I went back down and said it was impossible to stay there, the receptionist promptly found us another room, actually an upgrade but up four flights of stairs.
Berat is best known for its white Ottoman houses and is also a Unesco World Heritage city. It’s approximately 2,400 years old and is situated on the Osum River.
We were spending just one night here so dropping our bags in our room we set off exploring. Behind our hotel there was a mass of alleyways, with shops and restaurants, going up into the hills. Across the river where the houses were Berat Castle sits on top of a rocky hill. Deciding to give the castle a miss we spent the time looking around.
Walking across the bridge to the other side we walked through more alleys to find a restaurant I had looked up. It didn’t have a view but was in such a quaint garden overhung with lights on the grapevines and was perfect. There seemed to be only one oldish man running it and when I asked for the menu, he just reeled off three dishes in the quietest voice. It was then a surprise to see him take up his guitar and provide some entertainment.
Berat is well worth an overnight stay to experience the beauty of the nighttime lights of the houses.