Castles – Travels with Ali

~ Hazlewood Castle, Tadcaster – A Historic Gem for a Memorable Overnight Stay ~

This year on our way back from Glasgow we had an overnight stay at Hazlewood Castle. I only happened upon this castle when looking at our route home and saw that it was also a hotel. I was extremely excited to find that it was quite reasonable for an overnight stay. We didn’t manage to get a room in the castle itself but in one of the buildings surrounding the place.

Hazlewood castle dates back to 1066 and was in the possession of Gamel, son of Osmund. It was during the time of King Edward the Confessor.

1086 Doomsday notes that it was given to Mauger le Vavasour by William de Percy.

From 1183 until 1826 it was in the hands of the Vavasour family and it was only due to the death of the 7th baron that it was passed to a relative – Edward Stourton, who then took the name Vavasour.

In 1290 it was granted a licence to crenallate the medieval building.

In 1908 it was put up for sale and the Vavasour family moved to New Zealand where they started the famous Vavasour Winery.

This of course is just a very short timeline and below is the history of events that took place during the different reigns. The family certainly had their ups and downs but always seemed to come together again.

Coincidentally Vavasour is one of my favourite Sauvignon Blancs so I was especially intrigued that the name was originally from France. The restaurant was also called Vavasour.

The surrounding buildings and gardens

The castle is situated in beautiful countryside and the views are amazing. We had a pleasant walk through the gardens and were also surprised to be given a key to enter the small chapel. I think the key must date back hundreds of years as it was extremely large and difficult to open the door.

The door to the chapel

Inside the Castle

This is a fabulous hotel for a night or two, great for an anniversary or birthday treat. There is also a day spa offering relaxing and revitalising treatments, ideal for a girls’ weekend away.

Also posting for Lens Artist Challenge, In the Garden, hosted by Ann-Christine.

~ Amazing Albania – Berat to Kruje ~

Kruje, located 20kms north of Tirana was our next destination. We were staying for one night in the Hotel Panorama and when we arrived mid-afternoon there were coaches either side of the small narrow road. There was parking but we couldn’t see where to stop to look for it. There was a carpark opposite but it was blocked by a coach, then a man appeared and said he would guide us in! It was just chaos but he seemed to know what he was doing and even took our cases for us. I couldn’t work out if he worked for the hotel or it was just a hobby directing the traffic.

It was very orderly inside and we were promptly shown to our room. After a short rest we decided to walk through the bazaar and then up to the castle. As Tirana was only a short distance it looked to be a busy destination and we could hear the hustle and bustle from our room.

Kruje was like a mix of Gjirokaster and Berat. Cobbled streets, a bazaar and a castle upon the hill.

Various items for sale at the bazaar

Once we were at the top, we stopped for a drink in the cafe and rest! It was only a short walk but of course all uphill.

I can’t believe I didn’t take photos of the castle so have had to “borrow” one from the Albanian Tourist Industry. I was too busy taking in the views.

Looking for a place for dinner later we found the perfect spot with fabulous views. Something I did find odd in all of Albania was seeing groups of men in the evenings at cafes and bars, no women at all. Old and young, smoking and drinking. We walked down one small street in Kruje with cafes either side and they were full of just men. It would be hard travelling with a female companion to feel comfortable in these smaller places.

Interesting Facts: Edward Lear, the famous English landscape painter visited Albania in 1848, but Lord Byron in fact got there 40 years before in 1808. We saw many paintings by Lear in the places we visited. These small things intrigue me especially when I mention Albania to people and so many have asked, if it’s safe and where is it. I suppose the fact that it was closed off for nearly 50 years attributes to this.

A day and one night is plenty to see what Kruje has to offer and makes a good stopping off point to travel further North, which unfortunately we didn’t have time for. Our next and final destination is Tirana.

~ Amazing Albania – A Visit to Gjirokastra Castle ~

After a delicious breakfast served by Anna, the daughter-in-law of the owner, we packed our bags and left them with her so we could visit the castle. Breakfasts in Albania are normally cakes, breads and pastries, but none offer gluten free options, which is perhaps a good thing because I would be piling on the pounds. There is always a great variety of fruit and yoghurt though plus freshly made omelettes, so I didn’t starve.

Of course it was another uphill slog, but what castle worth its salt is not at the top of a hill. Gjirokaster Castle has a fascinating and also rather grim history, especially so in Hoxha’s reign. King Zog ruled Albania from 1928 until he was ousted by Mussolini in 1939. Zog was also known as a cruel dictator. Hoxha reigned from 1944 until he was toppled in 1992. It was a long and terrible time for Albanian people as we found out by visiting the castle.

There was a resistance movement during Hoxha’s reign but any opposition to the harsh rules were met with severe retribution, including internal exile, long-term imprisonment and execution. During his forty-year reign, the Albanian leader banned religion, forbade travel and outlawed private property.

The castle is also known as “The Seven Windows Prison” of which there are five below. The guards used to go into these cells each morning and bang iron frames on the windows to check they were secure. The noise rang out over the villages below as a reminder there was no escape.

We opted also to have a walk around the museum which was an added cost, but the price was minimal and it seemed empty. In here we learnt so much more about the history and the horrors that went on, quite sobering to read. It was interesting to note that not much is written about Hoxha and what photo they did have, his face was scratched out.

It is said that the castle was originally built in the 4th century, it is the largest castle in Albania. I’m always drawn to castles because of their history and Anthony enjoys a walk around a museum reading every word printed, always adding to his extensive knowledge.

Our next destination is along the coast, part of the Albanian Riviera. There are no highways across Albania – East to West only North to South – so there is much backtracking or I have simply not planned the route well. As Anthony has no clue about where we are headed next, he won’t realise, I just tell him the planned itinerary for that day, very exciting for him!

~ Amazing Albania – Sarande to Gjirokastra ~

Today’s journey takes us to Gjirokastra, known as the Stone City, nestled in the mountains. This picturesque town has cobblestone streets, a huge castle, and a colourful market bazaar. But first, we make a slight detour to visit the beautiful Blue Eye.

Gjirokastra is approximately an hour’s drive from Sarande but it seems so much longer because of the sharp hair pin bends and the need to slow down. Albanian drivers know no fear and will pass two at a time on a bend! We picked up a hire car from a rental agency called Narnia! I wasn’t sure what to expect on entering, hopefully not a wardrobe door. I had been liaising with Kristina for a few weeks about price, duration and the one way transfer fee. She gave me the best offer of all the places I looked at.

There was a long delay in signing off on all the documents and payment, due to the fact her credit card machine was not working. The ATMs outside both only dispensed 100 Euros at a time, but miraculously Anthony found £300 emergency money in his wallet. We could not leave a deposit though only an imprint of the credit card, but were asked to leave a passport or driving licence to be returned by the driver on pick up, not a viable option! Anyway she agreed that we could forego this, just really wanted our money.

The car was an old manual Citroen 3 and seemed in good condition. Anthony did say after he was a bit daunted about the prospect of driving in Albania, but at the end he enjoyed himself immensely.

Our first stop was The Blue Eye, a natural water spring featuring the clear blue water of a depth of 50 metres. It is essentially a tourist spot and not free to enter. As it was on our way we thought we would check it out. On arrival you have to pay for parking plus entry to the park. It is quite a walk from the car park but there is a “train” to take you to the top. Of course I took the train, whilst Anthony walked.

You can also hire electric scooters which I saw many people doing, although I’m not sure they realised how dangerous it would be on the way down. I actually saw one young guy come flying off into the bushes, nettles I believe!

I can’t say I was all that impressed with this attraction, yes it was pretty but just another sight. Also you are not meant to swim, but rules in Albania seem very flexible, and I saw many people going in.

After this it was onwards and upwards towards Gjirokastra. I was actually starting to worry about driving up so high, but my trusty chauffeur seemed to have everything under control. I had the address of the hotel in my google maps but it took us three goes to get to the right place with Anthony having to do crazy three point turns to retrace our tracks. We thought we had the correct hotel and the owner actually parked our car and took our bags out only to tell us we had the wrong hotel!

Our first sight of Gjirokastra

Our hotel and the balcony off our room.

We were only here for the night and so as soon as we had checked in we set off to explore. This small town was just so delightful and I loved everything about it immediately. It was a short walk down to the narrow cobblestoned streets where the bazaar was with all the restaurants and bars. It reminded me of a mini Montmartre.

There were still a few tour groups around and the atmosphere and vibe was buzzing. You can visit here on a day trip but that means you don’t get to experience the appeal of this lovely town at night.

**Memi Bey mosque built during the Ottoman period in 1757**

Anthony couldn’t believe his eyes when a parade of vintage cars drove through the cobble stoned streets, tooting and blaring their horns down the hill. Right up (or down) his alley.

It was also a popular place for wedding photos as we watched from a street side cafe the happy couple posing.

**He ended up buying a traditional hat!**

Some of the items that could be bought at the bazaar, there must be a market for old war objects and clothes as nearly every shop had things of this nature.

This building was just at the back of our hotel and once must have been a thriving hub of entertainment. There was a plaque with a poem next to it.

Very poignant

We had a cocktail and beer at the Gallery Irish Pub which had great views. For dinner Anthony wanted to eat somewhere traditional, so we found a tiny place tucked between shops called Verdeja. There was only one room with four tables and looked to be a family owned restaurant. The man of the place donned an apron and hat and looked on while his wife did all of the work! Further away from the coast the cuisine consists largely of meat, all parts of an animal on offer, as Anthony loves tripe he was keen to try this local dish. I preferred the vegetarian options of stuffed peppers or aubergines.

Walking around the bazaar through the narrow streets and browsing the shops was the highlight of the day. It was interesting to learn that this was Enva Hoxha’s birthplace, which it was why everywhere was so well kept.

Next up Gjirokaster Castle

Exploring Corfu – Sidari and Kassiopi – Day 2

Our man from Friendly’s Rental Cars was ready and waiting for us at 9am in the reception as planned and drove Anthony back to his office to complete the paperwork. We had hired a car for two days to explore more of Corfu.

My Chauffeur with the same red Fiat Panda I drive in Perth

Our first stop was Sidari which is at the Northern end of the island. I had read a blog that this shouldn’t be missed. It didn’t take long, around 45 minutes.

We stopped only for a drink and a quick walk along the beach. It was packed with English tourists and the street was lined with bars, cafes and restaurants many with English names. Although the beach was nice and sun beds seemed to be free if you ordered from the bar or cafe behind. Good for a week’s holiday if you just wanted to relax.

Fancy canopied sunbeds

Kassiopi was our next destination, but we stopped for lunch first. We found a traditional taverna on the side of the road, not too far up the mountain. We enjoyed a delicious lunch. I love finding small gems like this taverna. The place was empty of customers, making me think it was closed. There was a group of men smoking and chatting and when I asked if they were open, they said of course and jumped to attention!

Full and replete we pressed onto Kassiopi. It was only a 15 minute drive there but finding parking was difficult. As usual though my trusty driver managed to find a spot.

Kassiopi is situated on the North East coast of Corfu and was once a traditional fishing village. Now the bays are surrounded by holiday villas and apartments. It’s still a charming and picturesque place though.

There is an old Byzantine Castle up on the hill which we walked up and explored.

This castle dates back to the 11th century but was largely destroyed by the Venetians in the 13th century. They removed many of the large stones to the old town to fortify the fortress there. It must have been hard work!

The views were amazing and the climb up worth it.

I definitely preferred Kassiopi to Sidari and could easily enjoy night or two here.

~ Day Two over ~

A great week in Scotland – Part 1 – Edinburgh

We were recently invited to a Scottish wedding in Edinburgh so decided to have an extended trip and explore the City and surrounding areas. Edinburgh was a first for both of us so we had lots to explore. Arriving from Perth through Doha straight into Edinburgh was brilliant. Travelling on Qatar airways was fantastic. […]

Arriving from Perth through Doha straight into Edinburgh was brilliant. Travelling on Qatar airways was fantastic. Doha airport is out of this world, like another planet, so airy and spacious. We spent a relaxing hour or two here.

Some of the amazing sculptures around Doha Airport

We stayed at Apex Grassmarket Hotel and had a room overlooking the Grassmarket. We had such a nice view of the castle as well. Edinburgh is such a great city for walking around and there’s so much interesting history here. There is a big French influence as we found out from all the restaurants we ate in. This must come from Mary Queen of Scots who grew up in France.
Over the next couple of days we walked our feet off enjoying all the sights of Edinburgh. In between our stay we also hired a car to explore what we could of Scotland. Our first port of call was of course the magnificent Edinburgh Castle.

Edinburgh Castle

There are so many tours around but we decided to go at our own pace and be free to roam wherever we liked.

Next up was the very pretty Dean Village which is about 20 minutes walk from Edinburgh Castle. This is a heritage listed village and well worth a visit.

Dean Village

Well Court built in the 1880’s and recently refurbished

Looking through the archway into the courtyard of Well Court

The clock tower rising above what was once the social hall

Next up we had a bit of lunch in a lovely little French restaurant called Escargot Bleu, it was French right down to the waiters and chef!

To walk off this wonderful lunch we headed to Holyroodhouse Palace and the gallery. This was one of my favourite places, very old and beautiful. Gorgeous garden and also enjoyed walking around the rooms. I didn’t realise that this is the Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh so is very much a working palace. Even that night Princess Anne was flying in for a formal dinner with the University.

Holyroodhouse Palace

Holyroodhouse Palace was founded by David I in 1128 as an Augustinian monastery in 1128. In 1501 James IV built a Palace for himself and his bride, Margaret Tudor – the sister of Henry VIII and the grandmother of Mary, Queen of Scots. Mary spent much of her later turbulent years here and was married twice from here.

The arches of the ruined abbey

From the gardens

One of the walls still standing

This place was definitely a must see for me and if you’re a history buff then you shouldn’t miss it.

One thing I loved about Edinburgh were all the quirky little alleyways and the names above them.

One rainy afternoon we had lunch in the lobby of The Scotsman Hotel. A beautiful baroque building dating back to 1905 and was once the home of The Scotsman Paper.

A few more photos of street scenes below.

The famous pierced lady who claims to be the most pierced human – I don’t think she’s lying!

Two “wee” scottish boys dressed for the “Independence for Scotland” march

The famous Greyfriars’ Bobby – a skye terrier who guarded his master’s grave for 14 years.

The famous West Bow Street

Cobblestone alleyway

We also found time for a quick walk around Greyfriars Kirkyard. Still an active church with a famous burial ground going back to the 16th century. It was very hard to actually read the names on all the plaques.