~ Passing through Plymouth, UK ~

After checking out of our cute B and B in Hope Cove,Devon and saying goodbye to our dear friends and also Storm Eunice we headed off to Plymouth. Not before walking straight into Storm Franklin though! Below is a little video selfie on the seashore trying to get to the car.



The drive is just under an hour to Plymouth and we had planned to spend the morning there before driving onto Bath for the night. I can’t say I ever remember going to Plymouth so didn’t have any expectations. We were both pleasantly surprised by this wonderful little town so full of history and quaint cobblestoned lanes brimming with pubs and shops.

There is a dramatic looking Royal Citadel in Plymouth where we would loved to have had a wander, but we didn’t have the time to take in all the glorious detail of this gothic piece of architecture. Built in the late 1660’s to defend the coastline against marauding ships and pirates.

Above are photos of the streets and alleyways that we walked through.

Old and quirky buildings

This mural fascinated me as I could see it would have been quite stunning when first painted. It is located where the The House that Jack Built is and it is over the entrance to a wonderful selection of shops and cafes. I did some research on this mural and apparently there was one underneath this one that caused quite an outcry, showing 88 naked bodies. The mural today depicts “The Last Judgment” and “Dante’s Inferno” by an artist called Robert Lenkiewicz who has since passed away.

I really enjoyed walking up and down these streets that didn’t seem to have changed for hundreds of years. The brickwork of the houses were so unusual.

As it was another dreary day we headed back to the car and drove out to look at the lighthouse and Drake’s Island.

Smeaton’s Tower lighthouse, originally built on the Eddystone reef in 1759, but was taken down in early 1880’s due to erosion. Most of the structure was moved stone by stone to where it stands today. It stands 72 feet high and is open to the public on weekends.

Looking over the wall down below stands the Tinside Lido. An art-deco style structure built in 1935. Apparently voted in the top ten of Europe’s outdoor pools. Only open during the summer months and is fully accessible to people of all needs. I have to say I was surprised about this little nugget of information as to me it looks quite derelict and in need of major renovation!

Tinside Lido

Drake’s Island currently uninhabited and has been since 1989. It was to open again in 2020 as a luxury holiday resort but due to Covid this has been put on hold. There is a wealth of knowledge about this island available at Drake’s Island. I would love to visit one day and soak up hundreds of years of history.

Plymouth is definitely a place I would come back to and maybe spend a night or two, have a walk around the Citadel and enjoy dinner in one of the many restaurants we passed by.

Off to Bath next!

~ Enjoying Essex – Canvey Island Esplanade ~

The last time I visited Canvey Island was around 40 years ago, and then that was only at night to a nightclub or disco as it was called then, The Goldmine! It was a regular haunt for many years, such fun nights were had.

I have recently downloaded an app called Go Jauntly, which gives you different walks in whatever location you are in.

The walk I am taking you along in this post is along the Esplanade on Canvey Island to take a look at the murals on the sea wall. The Esplanade is lined with benches and each one is dedicated to a loved one with an engraved plaque. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did and maybe you will have a favourite.

The three murals below depict the changes on Canvey Island over the decades. The sun was out therefore so was my shadow!

The murals are all about the things in life for whom the mural was painted for.

A beautiful carefree life shown in the above mural.

All of these murals are so intricately drawn and beautifully painted, and have stood the test of time. Unlike many murals I have seen there is no graffiti anywhere to be seen.

My favourite is the ship with the elegant dancers in the foreground, did you have one?

It was a lovely sunny day and I also took the opportunity to snap some photos of the views from the Esplanade. They are interesting more than picturesque! Mud flats and rocks as far as the eye can see with an oil tanker in the far distance.

Click to enlarge above photos

Canvey Island

It is separated from the mainland of south Essex by a network of creeks. Lying only just above sea level, it is prone to flooding at exceptional tides and has been inhabited since the Roman conquest of Britain. A flood in 1953 from the North Sea devastated the island, killing 58 islanders and leading to the temporary evacuation of the 13,000 residents. It is now protected by modern sea defences comprising 2 miles (3.2 km) of concrete sea walls. Between 1911 and 1951 it was a popular seaside resort.

As much as it is residential here there are large oil tanks on the island and it is noted for the relationship with the petrochemical industry. Source – Wikipedia

As is our habit on these outings we always end up at a pub, and today was no exception! My dear husband stopped a lady walking her dog and asked her for a recommendation. She suggested The Lobster Smack.

Such a wonderfully old pub to end our walk with lunch, a pint and a cold white wine.

It is said that there has been a pub on this site since the 1580’s and was believed to have been a model for Dickens’ Sluice Farm in Great Expectations. I found a very interesting history of this pub in this link – The Lobster Smack.

Cheerio from the Essex Wanderers

I hope you enjoyed this walk along the Esplanade with me. I’ve been very cheeky and linked it to a few challenges below.

Marsha’s Photographing Public Art
Xingfu Mama’s Pull-Up-A-Seat
Jez’s Water-Water-Everywhere
Hammad’s Weekend Sky

~ Enjoying Essex – Finchingfield ~

Time for a look at another picturesque Essex village. Finchingfield is situated in the North West of Essex. The name Finchingfield dates back to the Domesday Book of 1086. The village is picture postcard perfect and the village green is surrounded by Georgian and medieval cottages.

We visited on a Saturday and like most villages, there is not much parking to be found. As it was nearing lunchtime when we arrived we pulled into The Red Lion, a very quaint looking pub. On opening the door we were greeted by a crackling fire and a table right by the window, perfect. The bar was seven stools wide and fully occupied with thigh to thigh patrons. With no access available I had to ask one of the ladies to move her stool. I realised then that it was a very locally local! Everyone knew each other and I felt quite the interloper. Once I had ordered drinks I found out that they only served pizza. As my mum and I don’t eat pizza this called for a rethink. I was told there was another pub just two minutes walk away that served amazing food. So after guzzling back our drinks, we set out on our way again.

As there was so much to photograph two minutes turned out to be a tad longer for me.

Finchingfield Guildhall
15th Century Guildhall

The detailed wall of the Guildhall is called pargetting. This is the technique of moulding designs into the external plastering of a wall. It is very characteristic of the area. Source: Finchingfield.org.uk

Walking down Church Hill
Looking at the Village Green from Church Hill

We easily found The Fox on the Green and were told by a notice to knock on the door and someone would answer. After waiting a polite few minutes freezing by now and no answer, I opened the door and was greeted by a waiter who took us to a table right by the fire! It was just too perfect. The smells were delicious and I saw delectable plates of food go by.

My Dad enjoying a homemade Steak and Ale Pie and my Haddock and Chunky Chips. All so scrumptious. This was just the perfect country pub that seem to be very difficult to find in England nowadays. So many seem to be chains, Greene King or Wetherspoons, I was beginning to despair of finding one that served good homemade meals.

I also find it strange that each pub differs as to the rules of where to stand. Some pubs no-one is allowed to stand at the bar and others you can’t even find a space to ease in! They seem to make up the rules day to day.

Looking back up towards Church Hill

I had a quick wander around whilst everyone else waited in the car as it was getting extremely cold by this time.

The Old Schoolhouse, left and above. The Village pond and 200 year old bridge, bottom left. Houses surrounding The Village Green, right.

I wanted to make one more stop before we drove home and that was to look at the Finchingfield Windmill.

Finchingfield Windmill

This is a Grade ll listed building, dating back to approximately 1756. The largest windmill in Essex and the last one of seven in this area.

A village well worth visiting if you are in the area and I saw that it had not gone down the tourist route as so many of these villages have been seen to do.

For more information about this village click here

Thanks for joining me on these village visits. Until the next one – Cheerio!

👻The Golden Ghost Town of Gwalia, Leonara, WA 👻

On our recent trip exploring country towns of Western Australia, we were recommended a visit to Gwalia in Leonara. Around a 2 ½ hour drive from Kalgoorlie, maybe a bit more with a stop on the way. It was well worth the drive to see this fascinating ghost town. We had a beautiful day for our visit after yesterday’s grey and gloomy day. At the bottom of this post there is a short history.

We first went up the museum to have a look around at the top and to view the mine and managers’ buildings. The husband of the lady running the gift shop and information centre is the restorer of all the buildings.

A mural painted by the artist Roderick Sprigg in 2018 who grew up in Gwalia. He actually painted the corrugated effect as well.

The head frame made of Oregon Pine in 1899.

The mine at present

The tram used from Gwalia to Leonara

A view of Mt. Leonara from the verandah

Hoover House is now a bed and breakfast and also serves Devonshire teas on the verandah

Inside Hoover House

The Ghost Town

The miners and their families tried to make the best with what little they had. It must have been boiling in the summer and freezing in the winter. These are some of the homes below of the outside and inside.

Patroni’s guesthouse – while some miners had their own homes many were single men who boarded here. Families often ate their meals here if they had no kitchen facilities.

An entertainment room, the piano looks in need of an urgent tune up and repair

The State Hotel built in 1903 and once I imagine a grand old building. It was built to give the town a licensed premise and to lessen the “sly-grog” trade.

Short History of Gwalia

In 1896 a gold reef was discovered by prospectors. It was originally named Sons of Gwalia which signifies the Welsh heritage of the investors.

In 1897 110 miners were employed at the mine and in 1898 Herbert Hoover (the 31st president of the USA) was appointed as mine manager, working for only six months here.

By 1901 – 1903 the goldmine is thriving and surpassing its predicted production. By now 884 people live here and a school opens. Also a tram service established between Gwalia and Leonara.

1914-1918 many men leave to enlist in WW1.

1919 – it is now the deepest mine in Australia.

1921 – 1929 – A fire destroys the power station and mill and reconstruction works commence. Herbert Hoover becomes President of the USA (1929).

1939 – 1945 – WW2. The Italian miners employed at the time were interred and the mine is now operating at a loss.

1963 – On the 28th December the mine closes, there was a mass exodus of most of the people, abandoning their homes and many belongings.

1964 – The population drops from 1,200 to 40.

1983 – The mine was reopened and is still a going concern today.

Gwalia Mine – For more information

Thanks so much for reading and travelling with me to this unique place. I hope you have enjoyed the photos and history!

On the trail of Historic Towns, Western Australia – Toodyay and Northam

We decided to do a three day trip just recently to visit some country towns in Western Australia. These towns were once thriving communities, established at the beginning of the twentieth century by early white settlers. Nowadays these towns rely on the historical landmarks to attract visitors.

Our first stop was to see the silo art which is located just outside of Northam. These incredible paintings were done by artists Phlegm and Hence. Try as I might I cannot find much about Phlegm, only that their paintings are all over the world. Hense is Alex Brewer, an American artist, originating in Atlanta, Georgia.

It is wonderful to see these grey drab buildings being brought to life and there are now many dotted around Australia.

After this we had a quick stop in Toodyay, with a population of approximately 1,500. Before European settlers came to these towns they were populated by the Noongar people.

Toodyay

Population – 1,500. Established in 1836.

Katrine

Next on out trail was a stop at Katrine, a tiny village just outside of Northam where I spotted a church.

St. Saviours Church
Katrine

Northam

We finally got to Northam around 4.30 pm and checked into the Farmers Home Hotel. This is a 150 year old newly renovated building which has 16 rooms. It is a magnificent building, the only downside being no decent restaurant. The Dome coffee house is situated in the building and offers guests a dinner menu. I can’t say we were impressed with the menu.
However we did have a fabulous room and in the distance you could see the Avon River. We managed a quick walk along the banks of the river before heading back to the bar.

Farmers Home Hotel
Our room
Our view on a very bleak day!

With reflection

The next day we checked out and began the long drive to Kalgoorlie, this would take around 6 hours including stops. My dear hubby loves a good long drive so this was perfect for him.

I will be featuring more historical towns in my next post. I hope you can make the journey with me!

Picture Perfect Philip Island, Victoria

Our trip to Victoria included a one night stay on Philip Island. It’s a place I’ve wanted to see for a while and was intrigued as to why many of the places are named after Isle of Wight towns. I haven’t read anything definitive to explain it, just that the early settlers (1800 or thereabouts) had just holidayed there or saw a similarity.

We travelled from Melbourne with our two intrepid travellers, Laurence and Maddy, with Laurence driving. It’s an easy drive around 90 minutes and you can drive onto the island across the Philip Island Road Bridge from San Remo.

Our first stop of the day was lunch at Saltwater, a restaurant directly on the seafront. After pizzas and fish tacos, we wandered over to see a “squadron” of pelicans awaiting their lunch.

Newhaven

As it was almost 4pm by now we had to get a move on to check into our accommodation. A little boutique guesthouse – The Castle, Villa by the Sea, located in the North of the island in Cowes.

Cowes was named by Henry Cox in 1865, a land surveyor who had just recently visited the seaport in England. Before this it was called Mussel Rocks.

We were already very impressed by the beautiful scenery on our drive up to Cowes. After checking in we walked along to the seafront. I could imagine how busy this place is in the Summer, such a wonderful island for a family holiday. Calm sandy beaches and grassy areas for picnics.

Cowes

Dinner that night was in a Greek restaurant a short walk from our guesthouse.

The next day we had an early breakfast along the seafront before checking out at 10 am. I had a lot planned for today.

Our first stop was Rhyll, a little fishing port named after the one in Wales.

Rhyll

A beautiful carving by Brandon Lawrence. Brandon created this sculpture from the massive cyprus tree that was blown down in a storm in 2016. It is called The Ferry Captain and depicts all things nautical. It honours all the ferry captains over the years.

Continuing with our tour we drove through Philip Island and down to the South West to Ventor, where we had a brief stop to watch the surfers. This is also where the penguins live and there is a nightly parade on show. We gave this a miss the night before as it was extremely chilly, maybe a visit is on the cards for the summer.

Ventnor

Downwards now to the very bottom tip of the island – The Nobbies. Home to the fur seals of Philip Island. There is a wonderful walk around the cliffs that takes approximately half an hour where you can see the roiling rollers of the sea. It’s quite mesmerising watching the waves.

The Nobbies

There is also an interactive Antarctic museum here which we didn’t visit but looked like a great place for families.

Churchill Island

Driving back now across the island to Churchill Island, where a historic heritage farm is located.

Churchill Island was named by Lt. James Grant in 1801 for the name of the man who had given him the seeds first planted here. There are beautiful well kept historical buildings and magnificent gardens to explore. It is still a working farm where there are many animals freely roaming around. A truly tranquil place to while away an hour or two and soak up the peace.

The Farm and Surrounding Areas

Churchill House and Gardens

A fabulous weekend was had by all on this picturesque island. Below are some links for interest.

Philip Island Historical Society

Churchill Island History

The Nobbies

Cowes

Lastly a map of Philip Island

Touring Tasmania – Stanley to Launceston

All too soon we were leaving Stanley, enroute to Launceston. It’s just a 2 hour 30 minute drive, so we had plenty of time to explore the wonderful coast road.

Our first stop was Boat Harbour Beach where we stopped for coffee. We found a beautiful little cafe right on the beach.

There are so many small coves and bays along this route. Next stop was Devonport. This is the port where the “Spirit of the Sea” docks. Sailing from Melbourne twice a day, overnight and in the day. Next time we visit Tasmania this is what hubby would like to do.

Following Penguin Road along the beach there is also a railway line, that is in close proximity with the road. We were lucky enough to see a freight train riding along side of us.

The Western Railway Line

For lunch we settled on a restaurant called Drift, which overlooked the Bass Strait. It was housed in a glass walled timber structure jutting over the beach.

Drift Restaurant, Devonport

Before driving to our hotel in Launceston we had to make an additional stop at the airport to change our car as the aircon had stopped working! They were expecting us so we were able to make a swap without too much trouble!

Arriving at our hotel at 5 pm, we checked in and then went off for a walk. We definitely took a few wrong turns and it ended up being a very long walk.

Launceston is just so full of old historical buildings that have been renovated or restored and now house businesses and restaurants. It was nice to see whole buildings intact, unlike Perth, WA, where often they just keep the facade.

Customs House was built in 1885 and features beautiful intricate Corinthian columns.

Albert Hall built in 1891 and is still used for events and functions.

Price Memorial Hall built in 1896 and the Independent Church built in 1836, by the Reverend Price, once stood next to it.

Launceston is a riverside town and is very different from Hobart. It’s the second largest city after Hobart. It seemed to me that the streets and roads were much steeper. The Tamar River runs through Launceston where there are many wineries and vineyards along the route.

A street in Launceston

We ended up at the Seaport where there are many restaurants and bars, and had happy hour in the Mud Bar.

There was a concert being played the weekend we were there, Jimmy Barnes and some other equally famous bands, so we were told everywhere would be booked out. I did make a few restaurant bookings before we arrived though and for our first night we went to Novaris. A very elegant Italian restaurant not too far from our hotel.

Tomorrow we will pick up Laurence and Maddy who are joining us for the rest of our stay in Tasmania.

Touring Tasmania – Highfield House, Stanley

During our short stay in Stanley we visited Highfield Historic Site. I love a historical house, more so when it has an English background in another country.

Highfield was built in 1826 in the Regency style of 1811 – 1820, by Edward Curr. Mr. Curr was the newly appointed manager of Van Diemans Land company that had bought 250,000 acres in this region. He and his wife Elizabeth had 15 children, most sent away to school during their early years.

I was fascinated by this house and all the gruesome history that went with it. Being built by the hands of the convicts that were being transported from England at the time. It was a very harsh and rugged terrain and many ventures failed due to the inclement weather.

They made sure they were warm with all these beautiful fireplaces. One in every room.

The Dining Room
One of the conversations written down for prosperity!
The Drawing Room
The Gallery

Room with a view

We had a wonderful time exploring this house, with all the in-depth information available. There are portraits on the wall of everyone who has lived here and some background history, extracts of diaries from the ladies of the house as well as detailed goods that were needed to run such a busy household.

Of course it must be remembered that before this settlement was built it was home to the diminishing Tasmanian Aboriginal People. With the contest for these lands between the Company and the Indigenous People came many violent deaths and massacres.

Touring Tasmania – Port Arthur Historic Site

Before heading to our next stop we took a detour down to Port Arthur. It’s a place I really wanted to see, hubby just says “where to next” and has no idea of the itinerary I have planned!

It takes around 90 minutes to drive from Hobart to Port Arthur, and you also have to book your time slot beforehand. We had booked a walking tour and boat trip and arrived around 12.30 pm. I have to say I was very disappointed with our tour guide as she didn’t move off her spot for 40 minutes, and I tuned out after a while as I watched the other tour groups walking around the many buildings on site. It felt rude to walk away. After she had finished her talk we had very little time left to explore before our boat trip.

The Penitentiary, formerly the flour mill, converted in 1854. This building had three floors. The ground floor was for the more dangerous prisoners and they were kept in heavy irons. The first floor housed men in lighter irons and the top floor accommodated up to 348 men in bunk beds. There was also a library, chapel and mess room. The prisoners were encouraged to read the thousands of books kept there, but after ten hours hard and gruelling physical labour I doubt they had the time.

This was the hospital where convicts were treated for respiratory or rheumatic ailments brought on by sleeping in cold and dank cells.

Looking back on the Penitentiary and surrounding buildings.

On the boat sailing away towards Carnarvon Bay.

There is a small island just off the site of Port Arthur that is the settlement’s cemetery. Between 1833 and 1877, 1100 people were buried here, convicts, military officers and their wives.

Some info on Port Arthur

Port Arthur was not just a prison but a complete community. It was home to convicts, military and civilian officers and their families. There is a church, school, cottages and law courts. The prisoners living and working here were repeat offenders from other penal colonies around Australia. Some prisoners survived and were by that time skilled and educated. Most did not and ended up in the asylum or the Isle of the Dead.

Port Arthur is also the place of the 1996 massacre, where 35 people lost their lives and 19 more were wounded. There is a memorial garden here commemorating them.

It is a very sobering place to visit but well worth your while. The grounds are beautifully well kept and also the buildings that are still intact. The boat trip is also worth going on.

We were pushed for time and didn’t really get to see as much as I would have liked, trying to fit everything in is not alway possible!

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After leaving Port Arthur and driving onto our next stop, we headed further down to Eaglehawk Neck. Here we had a long awaited lunch/snack looking over Pirates Bay.

Another very busy day on our tour and we still had another hour and half’s drive to our next destination, Richmond.

Even a Broken Clock is right twice a day! 🕰

I recently read a post by Anabel at the Glasgow Gallivanter all about clocks and clock towers and suggested that she should create a challenge. She has written some interesting facts which you can read on the link. I thought I would check my archives once again as I haven taken a fair few photos on my travels.

The former Kowloon Canton Railway Clock Tower. The railway station was open from 1916 until 1975 and the building later demolished. The clock tower was left standing after protests from The Heritage Society of Hong Kong. It is now a declared monument.

Royal Arcade, Melbourne. The most famous feature, the carved mythical figures of Gog and Magog, flanking Gaunt’s clock, which triggers the arms of the figures to strike bells each hour. There is a fascinating history behind Gog and Magog which can be found in the link.

St. Mary’s Church, Ely built in the 13th century with the tower added in the 14th century.

Albany Town Hall, Western Australia. The clock was started on 15 April 1891 at 3pm and made by William Potts of Leeds, England. Albany is the oldest settled town in Western Australia.

The iconic Spanish Bay Rolex Clock at Pebble Beach Golf Course, Monterey, California
I took this photo when we stopped here for lunch on our trip around the 17 Mile Drive in 2015.

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