~ Amazing Albania – Gjirokaster to Himare ~

Continuing our adventures through Albania, we set off today for Himare, along the Albanian Riviera. We had to bypass Saranda again as there is no straight road through. So we drove all the way down the mountain and then had to climb up again and down to Livadi Beach in Himare where we were staying!

We had to stop and take a photo of the shepherd and his herd.

Scenes likes this were very typical driving along the highway.

Arriving at Livadi Beach around 5pm, we located our hotel half way down the gravel track along the beach. I have to say we were a bit disappointed on first sight as it looked like a prison block. There didn’t seem to be anyone about, so I walked around the whole block and up the stairs, there was no-one in reception either. Walking down to the beach, past the bar I spotted a man lying fully clothed asleep under an umbrella. Coughing politely and waking him up I asked if he knew where the owner was, he jumped up quickly and made a call! Five minutes later his wife came from the back of the hotel and said she was trying to have a rest, obviously leaving hubby in charge! Anyway we went up to our room, which was just perfect, newly furnished with a balcony that overlooked the ocean.

We had two nights here, so a bit of R and R for Anthony after all that driving.

The beach stretched for miles and I’m glad we came just out of season, because the rows and rows of beach umbrellas told of the crowds that were expected.

There didn’t seem to be that many hotels for the amount of beds, but we saw a few campsites. Actually Livadi Beach was a beautiful tranquil place, and at night we could leave the window open and listen to the waves gently lapping against the shore.

Over the next two days Anthony got chatting to Nick “the layed laid back” husband and what his opinions were. He said most Albanians were lazy (pot/kettle came to mind) and many had left to work overseas. We hadn’t found this to be the case so far. His wife couldn’t have been a better hostess, even doing our laundry for free.

I did venture into the sea a few times, but coming out was a problem and lucky I had reef shoes. In the end I perfected my technique of digging a heel into the pebbles and launching myself forward, but it was a case of one step forward and two back. Not a graceful move.

We were told to help ourselves to drinks if there was no-one around.

Himare Old Town and Castle

The next day we drove back up to Himare Old Town, parked the car and walked up to Himare Castle.

Quite a slog for me as the paths were not even and made up of broken stones, hard on the feet. Absolutely fascinating to see how people are living within the walls of the old town and incorporating the walls into their homes. The walls date back to the 5th or 6th Century.

The aroma from the jasmine made the walk easier, taking deep breaths of perfumed air. We found the smallest cafe at the top with stunning views across Himare. The cafe and apartment where the owners lived were also incorporated into the ruins.

Below are some of the photos of the castle and surroundings.

The church of Sts. Sergius and Bacchus

This church was thought to have been constructed at the end of the 10th century or early 11th century. The murals are post-Byzantine and the colours still so vibrant.

I would definitely recommend a trip up to Himare Castle, with lunch at the top.

Back at the bottom I saw an old resident resting on a wall and couldn’t resist a shot, especially when he smiled.

Livadi Beach was perfect for a two night stop. Maybe if we ever get to visit Albania again we might try another area along the coast.